Cool mouth: "Vegetable Summer" of the people of the Yangtze River Delta in modern times

On the hot summer, the fire umbrella is high, and the kitchen in the home is comparable to the stove steaming box. In addition to being lazy to cook, most people who are sweating will also decrease their appetite due to dry weather. When this midsummer, more diners will prefer refreshing and delicious vegetables than oil -stained meat, thereby alleviating difficulty blocking heat. Summer vegetarian is also a method of health for modern people. In the summer of 1931, the Shanghai Life Media "Lisat Weekly" reminded readers that "summer heat, the most vegetarian, the weather is too warm, and the stomach should not be greasy." So, how did people use vegetables to make summer cool in a century ago?

Winter melon

Winter melon is a summer star vegetable for clearing heat and diuretic. A century ago, the "old Guang" of Shanghai Beach transplanted the essence of Lingnan diners into the sea of ​​catering, so more and more winter melon was put into the belly by Shanghai citizens in the hot summer.

Figure 1924 Winter Melonian Comics in Children's Pictorial

Winter melon tea is a summer drink for young and old. In 1938, the news of the "Xipao" stated that before August 1937, the Changchun Garden of Yuewei Museum next door to Yongan Bank, North Sichuan Road, Shanghai. Over the cup, the cup is also very clean, the price is four points. " The production of winter melon tea must not only use winter melon, but also other water -solving plant ingredients Sasuke. The article explained the specific steps of boiling winter melon tea: "Half of the winter melon, large lotus leaf number, add rock sugar boil. Put the refrigerator of the machine, or put the ice cubes in the water."

The recipes are general winter melon tea that is biased towards beverages, and this drink can also be closer to Chinese medicine. In 1939, the "Declaration" demonstrated the method of winter melon solution of "medicine and drinking": "Use a melon with a melon, cut off a cover in the ethics, dig out the 瓤, and put it in a pound of rock sugar, and it will still be covered. The charcoal furnace is fired, the melon is meaty water, and the rock sugar is gone ". However, this approach is time -consuming and laborious. Most merchants and self -control are still more happy to use the convenient recipe of "one pot".

The winter melon cup of "fresh eyebrows" is also a famous summer dish. In 1926, the "New Year's Eve News" detailed the classic of this Cantonese cuisine: "Half a melon, to go to the meat in the melon, the flesh, the pigeons, chickens, ducks and other meat, fresh lotus, bamboo shoots, etc. , Slowly stew until the synergy. " The author of the article commented that the beauty of the winter melon cup is "the melon meat, can be dug down with a spoon, mixed with each material. And the melon is stored in the melon, sweet and delicious, there is no rejuvenation, and the dishes of the summer."

Figure 1936 The Winter Gourd Cup in the Crown Garden Advertising

cucumber

Even if it was put in the material that was unable to talk about the rich century ago, cucumber was a "Volkswagen Vegetable" for many residents of many cities.

Figure 1916 The cucumber picture on "Children's Education Painting"

Eating cucumber in summer is best stir -fried or raw. In June 1935, the prose published by the Xinmin Daily called the summer "cucumber season". The author said that he liked to eat a pot of "green green, cut a piece of raw fried cucumber like copper plate" in the summer. In 1951, "Yi News" reported that "After the summer, there are more cucumbers. There is a" big spiny cucumber 'in Beijing. Generally, there is one foot to one foot two or three. It is a rare variety in China. 'Big spurs cucumber' is very straight, and the thorns on the melon skin are obvious. Of course, it will not be tied, and the taste is not bad. , I don't feel good at pain! "

The refreshing cooling of the condiments is also a good home of cucumber in summer. In 1939, a Shanghai writer reviewed his childhood summer side dishes in the "Zhao Zhaoyue": "We eat cucumber as soon as we go empty during the summer vacation, sometimes do not buy morning cucumber, cut cucumbers, cut into pieces and mix into pieces and mix it into pieces. One mixing salt, the porridge is strange to eat. "

The sauce made of cucumber is the soul partner who has passed the porridge in summer.

In 1917, the Beijing Life Reference Magazine's "Exploration and Performance Compilation" recorded the production process of local pickled cucumbers: "New cucumber, the tender people use it, the old man starts two tablets. Soak the soy sauce for more than ten days, remove it with boiling soup. Wash the cold water, dry it, and add noodle sauce pickled. "

Figure 1931 Advertising Malu Sauce Croissance in the "Iron News"

Southerners make sauce, and they also regard sauce as the first priority. In 1923, Shanghai's "Women's Magazine" informed readers to prepare the sauce for a long time before the cucumber matures: "On the first day of Xiaoshu, we must peel the beans to peel and cook, and knead with flour. It is called sauce cake. Fill in the pan and steamed the tempeh sauce in the pan. It is taken for about a minute. Each is cut into small pieces of Shengtao rice, and two or three plants are covered in the empty room. If it is slightly exposed to seven days, pour it into the tank and sprinkle with salt.

In modern times, Pudong, Pudong and Jiading have well -known sauce producers. In 1926, the "New Year's Eve" reported the production of sauce in Pudong area: "In the yellow plum season, we were Pudong. When we were busy cultivating, we also made sauce croissance to prepare the wonderful salt -in dishes in the hot summer. Pudong Pudong. Pudong. The sauce can be the same as the sellers such as Shanghai Ziyang Pavilion and so on. The taste is sweet and tender, and those who know it. There are two places in Tang and Yang Siqiao, and they are the second. "

Momordica charantia

Although the bitter gourd in the Modern Gourd in modern times is not widely planted, this cool vegetable is indeed an important summer ingredients in the big cities. In July 1940, the "Report" talked about the news of the old Shanghai summer diet, saying: "Among the summer vegetables, melon also accounts for an important position, such as winter melon, cucumber, loofah, and cold gourds loved by Cantonese people." This is to look at bitter gourd with Volkswagen's winter melon, cucumber, and loofah. In 1937, Huang Zhiming, an agricultural expert of Jinling University, vividly ordered the distinctive regional characteristics of bitter gourd and the difficulty of "cross -regional" in the "Guangdong Special Product Bitter Planting Method": bitter gourd "commonly known as cold melon, which is Guangdong specialty, countries around the world, and North China The province is rare for vegetable food, but the people in Guangdong are deep. The bitter gourds listed at the beginning of each year are often more than one yuan. " However, Huang Zhiming also sincerely suggested that the diners who are afraid of bitter gourd and the bitterness of bitter gourd easily alienated this chic summer deliciousness: "The taste of melon is bitter, and it has a special fragrance. Appreciate. "

Figure 1964 The bitter gourd plant painted in "Gourd Vegetable Cultivation Technology"

In Shanghai a hundred years ago, some "bold" citizens slowly realized the wonderful gourd, and the bitter gourd business in the Cantonese restaurant gradually increased. Advertising in 1935 "Social Daily" showed that at that time, Guansheng Garden cultivated bitter gourd in its own farm located in Caohejing, and harvested the stores of Guansheng Garden in the hot summer season to make bitter gourd fried beef and bitter gourd. Dises such as fried chicken slices for diners. Of course, for Shanghai citizens who are sweet and sweet, try to swallow the bitter gourd from the "sorrow" to the cooling of the throat in refreshing, and it still requires a psychological construction process. As a result, in the summer of 1937, the essay "Bitter Gourd" in the Shanghai News could not help but say "there is a cold gourd in the Cantonese restaurant in the Cantonese restaurant, or it can be mistaken for it."

In 1922, "Week", a Hunan writer who lived in Hangzhou said that at that time, Hangzhou people did not know how to cook with bitter gourd, but "when the bitter gourd is red, dig into its son."

In some areas, bitter gourd is selected as a natural "preservation agent" for summer dishes. In 1929, a prose at the "North China Daily" talked about this trick: "When I was in the meal, there were bitter gourd balls back to pot meat and two bucket bowls to clear soup. Soup, no taste of the night. "

Tadpole

Anti -年 is a perennial aquatic herbal plant. Its common edible parts are ball stems, as well as horseshoe and earth chestnuts. The 1934 version of "The Latest Pyramida" lists the common way of eating folk crickets: "Raw food is very tender and crispy. It is very sweet. Cook it, crispy but not greasy, sweet and delicious. ', Can storage for durability. "

The harvest of 需要 需要 requires "picking". In 1936, Ningbo Cixi local journal "Dongshan" carefully depicts the steps of the harvest of the south: "October, discharge the water in the fields to dry it. By November, when the leaves withered, they can be excavated. Three or four hundred pounds of acres can be obtained. After harvesting, those who do not sell them in time must bring mud to store the cool and ventilated place. It can also be sold in May and June of the following year. At this time, the evaporation of water is enough to increase sweetness. "

Hundred years ago in Shanghai, selling coriander is a popular business that can often meet at the end of the street. In 1929, "Shanghai Common Sense" magazine recorded: "Most of the people who sell land selling the chestnuts are mostly in Suzhou, and Jiangbei is the same. They have a slogan. Those who want to buy them listen to this slogan, and they know that the hawkers who specialize in the ground are: ' Ah should be familiar with the chestnut, buy the ground chestnut, one strings of three money, five money two strings! 'This is the signboard in their gay mouths. In fact, three small money is really issued, buying a string from him, he does not sell him. This slogan was passed down more than ten years ago! "

FIG. 1944 The photography work "Burieving the Land" published in Shanghai "Magazine"

Men and women in the city of Peiping in modern times have a soft spot for the love of 荸, and even they have drawn out the "three, six -nine class" for the local and foreign crickets. In 1935, the "Investigation of the Rongye Industry" contained in the "North China Daily" determined that the "northern coriander" produced by Haidian was inferior to the "south" that was sold in the Yangtze River Delta and other places, but in general, the people were more affordable: It is usually so -called 'southern'. Compared with the species of the place, the taste is sweet and the price is more expensive. About thirty -six pieces per catty. It can be cheaper. However, Nanzhang is always unsuitable because there is a thick layer of wet mud outside. " The article also mentioned that at that time, hawkers in Peiping City would skew the coriander into a rock sugar gourd.

Most of the skewers sold on the street a hundred years ago were cooked "cooked goods". In 1909, the "Picture Daily" published a "selling cooked 荸" words: "Cooked and cooked and sweet, a series of bamboo slices. You may wish to buy a few strings, and the snacks are not cost a few money. "".

Figure 1910 "Business Photo" on "Picture Daily" - "Selling Selling"

The selection of 也 is also very "particular". In 1928, Shanghai's "Common Sension" magazine disclosed the trick to identify whether the 荸 19 is sweet: "Those who see their color is as white as lime, they will be old and not sweet. Tender (refers to the peeled person). If you do not peel, you can look at the protruding of the bottom, you can buy it. " The good 荸 not only must not only be sweet, but also need to go into the mouth. Therefore, if you want to be the extreme sweetness of the 致 故, you need to carefully select it.

Browse the advertisements of Shanghai cold drink shops in modern newspapers. Di chestnut cake is a type of summer desserts with higher frequency. A century ago, the ground chestnut cakes were diverse, but the main raw materials were 荸. In 1936, the "Dagong" published the specific method and taste characteristics of the chestnut cake made: "Take the cleaning powder of the cleaning, adjust the water as thin as a paste, add sugar and mint (the best mint in the pill Leaves, soaked water for clear water), osmanthus, etc., boil into the pot, stir with boiling, gradually thicker, brown and black, pour into the porcelain pot, immerse in the coldest well water outside the pot, and then condense for a few hours. Solid. Cut as a small square, eat and sweet, and eat the most in summer. " Lotus root

Many people may not know, not every lotus pond can make crispy and sweet lotus root. There are three common lotus categories, one is Zilian, the other is Hualien, and the other is the lotus lotus with the characteristics of the ravioli.

In 1934, "Times · Outside" outlined the industrial structure and variety classification of Chinese lotus root at that time: "The planting of the lotus is probably the most wild majority, Hunan, Hubei, Anhui, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, etc. The lotus root accounts for 67 or seven. If the seeds are the seeds, there are two types of. It happened. Lotus leaves and lotus flowers grew on the stem nodular. Although the lotus flowers are the same as the same, two and one, but there are also lotus and lotus lotus. Rare, most of the red -colored reds; the lotus, the slopes are short and the taste is astringent, but he has a lot of flowers, so the number of lotus rooms that are knotted are also a lot. "

A century ago, Suzhou was the most advantageous lotus root producing area in the Yangtze River Delta. In 1926, Hua Yinshui praised the crickets produced in Suzhou in "Friends of Lianyi": "My Su's 藕, who is known as a" Nantang Tu ", produced outside the gate of the gate, and the land of Da Dangbang. . The ground and lakes, the soil is deep, the soil is large, fresh and tender. Passengers come to the Soviet Union. In 1927, the news of the "Newspaper · The Entry of the Euki" even directly linked Suzhou to high -quality 藕: "The best of the crickets is the best in Suzhou. Essence Lotus root in the Shanghai citizens in modern times has also relied on Suzhou Lotus to produce. In 1944, a reporter from the "Poster" found that "all the crickets in Shanghai were given up to Suzhou. Daily in Suzhou, there were ships to Shanghai in the morning, carrying twenty tons of crickets, that is, four hundred burdens."

Figure 1935 "Children's Morning Post" comics "Cai Lian"

Ask for the "fresh" literati, they will also taste the new puppets that are not dry in the lake mud in addition to watching the lotus. In 1932, Xu Huanhua published the essay "Talking" in the "Report", which described his experience of purchasing new lotus root by the Shi West Lake on Yangzhou and the taste experience of "eating and eating". Xu believes that the cricket should be eaten as soon as possible after the water out of the water, so as not to lose the umami taste: "The soldiers sold by the city, or have been in the water for a long time, or have a climate change. The suspension is made, and the deep well is soaked in the well.

Figure 1931 "Beiyang Pictorial" Photography: Tianjin Bali Terrace farmers are picking up

The dishes on the table of ordinary people can also be rich in categories and full of patterns. In 1926, the article "New Year's Eve" article stated that five types of boiled lotus, glutinous rice boiled, coriander, stir -fried ravioli, and ravioli powder were used to choose the choice of ravioli. Among them, the author is regarded as a wonderful product of "breaking the ravioli, fried with fried", which is called "its taste is not asian." The author likes Su Zhai, a common "imitation amaranth" in a vegetarian banquet -"sweet and sour pork ribs" uses the slices to enrich the inside. Good 藕 好 好 好 好, it seems that this is the "true meaning" recognized by ancient and modern food.

Summer dishes in a unique place

Ten miles are different, and hundreds of miles are different. In addition to the common "summer cuisine", there have been a number of unique summer dishes in the Yangtze River Delta hundreds of years ago.

In July 1936, the author of the Grand Press articles was known as "Summer Food Magic". Those who want to see the fresh whip bamboo shoots must go to Shaoxing: "Every time I go to Linpu Town, known as the" Little Shanghai ", it is always in the summer. When I eat there, I always whip the bamboo shoot soup, whip, whip, whip, whip, whip, whip Bamboo shoots ... the flavor is unique. "

Jiading Luo Hancai is also a "niche" summer dish with distinctive regional characteristics. In 1909, Shanghai's "Grand Pass" tells the name and taste of the name and taste of Luo Hancai: "Luo Han cuisine is the same as spinach, and the leaves are long and round, also known as wild spinach. For the eighteen leaves, the number of Luo Han, so the vulgar call is 'Luo Han cuisine'. Pickled as a cricket, the taste is very delicious. In 1925, "Big World" mentioned that Luo Hancai gradually came out from a "county cuisine" and entered the past of Greater Shanghai: "This thing is marinated and made in Shanghai. Those who are addicted to this will buy from Nanxiang Town of Jiading. At that time, the train was not through, and it was not easy to turn the trustee. Nearly, there were sauce shops, such as Ziyang Guan, etc. ".

The local cold dishes in the Yangtze River Delta are full of attitudes. Among them, the eastern Zhejiang region depends on the sugar, but the people elsewhere are uncomfortable. In 1920, Zheng Weijun wrote in Shanghai's "Juvenile" magazine. The article has mentioned the cool and cool side dishes of old Shaoxing people such as amaranth rods, mildew bamboo shoots, vegetables pickled vegetables, dried vegetables, and dried radish. The author explained a "flavor" interesting news about the local food customs: although the amaranth rod "stinks, the Shawan is disgusted, called 'broken eel'. "It is as fresh as eels." A century ago, there were close exchanges between Ning Shao and Shanghai, and countless "Ala" townships were settled in the north of the north. Affected by this, some "stinky" dietary customs also followed Ning Shao immigrants into the catering and cultural circle of modern Shanghai. For example, the "Report" advertisement in 1933 shows that the sauce garden opened by Yangzhou people in Shanghai at that time would also make "Ningbo Winter Gourd Winter". In the 1930s, modern canned companies such as mainland factories also launched special cans such as stinky amaranth stalks, focusing on pushing to the Shanghai market.

Figure 1927 "Picture Times" Photography "Pick Amaranth"

A bowl of refreshing vegetables, a cool summer. The heavens and earth nourish the diet, and the diet follows the heavens and the earth. Regardless of the winter melon, cucumber, bitter gourd, lotus root or other specialty dishes, in the summer vegetables of the Yangtze River Delta hundreds of years ago, there is a clean and summer season tradition, but also inherit the wisdom of life in conformity.

(Author: Zou Yantao, Department of History, Shanghai University)

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