Jiangnan style | In the poetry of Pi Rim, go to a feast of Wu Di cuisine

Original Author: Black Team

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When it comes to the poetry of the late Tang Dynasty, many people may think of the famous Yongda Canal poem: "Tao Sui died for this river, and so far he depends on the waves. More. "Perhaps he would still think of" Pi Lu ", thinking of his sincere friendship between him and Lu Guimeng. And food, especially Wu Di cuisine, seems a bit far away from this poet famous for realist poetry.

Grand Canal, Tuyuan Network

Indeed, Pi Rixiu is not from Jiangnan. When he was in his family, he once said: "The eunuch of Xiangyang, the ancestor of the ancestors, the descendants of Xiangyang because of the family of Xiangyang, and the world."

The authentic Xiangyang people have deep origin with Wu Di. According to scholar Miao Yan's research, Pi Riyu was in the eighth year of Tang Xiantong (867 AD). He was not in a hurry to be an official. "From Beigu to Gusu", he was so comfortable that he had been in Suzhou for thirteen years before he returned to Beijing. After a few years in Beijing, Wang Xianzhi, who was unfortunately encountered in the second year of Qianfu (875), returned to Wu Di again.

From the perspective of existing poems, Pi Riwei visited the temple in Suzhou and visited temples. The acquaintance of Xiantong and Lu Guimeng for ten years added a touch of color to his Suzhou life.

Lu Guimeng, the word Lu Wang, Wu County, Suzhou. As early as the Jin Dynasty and the two countries, there were Gu, Lu, Zhu, and Zhang Grand Wang tribe in Jiangnan. Lu Guimeng was a member of the Lu family and the seventh grandson of the prime minister Lu Yuanfang during the martial arts period of the Tang Dynasty. Thirty. The rich land turtle Mongolian Kao Jinshi was not in the middle, and he simply lived in seclusion.

At first sight, Pi Riyu and Lu Guimeng were the same. In the following three years, the two often sang each other and wrote more than three hundred poems, and then accompanied by other friends to sing with the reward, which was compiled as ten volumes of "Songling Collection". In "Songling Collection", the poetry of the Japanese Skinxiu is more idle and paid attention to refining the words.

In the Republic of China Wujin Taoxiang Garden Shadow Song Song Ben "Songling Collection", 1993 Chinese Bookstore Photum

Writing a leisurely and exquisite life is naturally indispensable to mention food. Many of the poems left by Pi Richen during Suzhou have written the special diet of Wu Di, and staple foods, vegetables and vegetables, meat, aquatic products, beverages, etc., are not only for the author at the time, but also to the current reading to read now. Poetry, we left a deep and delicious impression.

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Condor Hu rice is cooked (hú) soft, not a good person. —— "Lu Wang and Wild Vegetables also show that Yashu uses the use of rewards"

泽 (gū) is the genius of Zeshenghe. His son is called 菰 Mi, also known as Chiang Shi and Guanhu.

草, source: "Materia Medica Tab"

If you are unfamiliar with this plant, then think about the white white on the table, it may be closer -infected with the crickets of Black Powder disease, and it will form a hypertrophic spindle -shaped meat stem. The stem is white.

Because the flowering period is long, and the sons fall off in batches, it is easy to pick and be rich in starch. Therefore, people in the Tang Dynasty will use rice noodles as alternatives to cook rice noodles and cook them into rice rice. Lowing to Li Bai's poems, who lived under Wulong Mountain, and went to the nobles who dine with golden spoons in "Yuan's Changqing Collection", they all enjoyed a bowl of rice.

菰 菰, source: bean fruit food-time machine

The color of the rice is similar to black rice. I want to cook the rice cooked. The black paint group is not very friendly, but the Tang Dynasty who had tasted the taste of rice rice noodles praised it and thought it was fragrant. Soft, slippery and other characteristics are very delicious. When Du Fu was sick, he missed rice: "Sliding memories of Hu rice, Xiang Wenjin brought soup." Wang Wei also tasted in the temple, "Xiang rice green rice, Jia vegetable green taro."

The delicious rice rice is often used as a cuisine for the Tang people. There is a cloud in the poem of Lu Guimeng's "Big Embankment": "Please stay with the guests, Rong Yan recommends carving." It is no wonder that his good friend Pi Rixiu also evaluated the rice with rice rice so high, thinking that it was food that high people could enjoy. Essence

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Rain comes to flowers and flows, and the sea bass fell to fish after spring. —— "Syrian Yambo Fisherman"

Various wild vegetables and fish are also foods often appear in Pisxiu poems. The Jiangnan climate is moist, the water network is dense, the vegetation is lush, and there are rich wild vegetables and aquatic products. Take the vegetables, for example, the ravioli is aquatic water lilies. The leaves float on the water surface, and the tender stems and leaf back have glue and transparent substances. In spring and summer, the tender stems and leaves of amaranth can be used for vegetables.

Amaranth, source: Published in Suzhou

The delicious tadpole has received a lot of praise from the Tang Dynasty poets. "Quan Tang Poetry" Volume 1 One Two Hezhang "Answer Chao Shi" Zeng Yun: "Mirror Lake's ravioli is like silk, and the village songs have been this taste recently." : "Orange flower paper guest house, ravioli is returning to the boat." Volume 1 and three storage Guangxi "Cai Ling Ci" cloud: "Pukou Duoyu family, invite me to the boat. Today, more than thousands of years later, the soup of soup is still a famous Jiangnan.

In addition to amaranth vegetables, Pi Rixiu also accepted a variety of wild vegetable gifts from Lu Turtle: "Think of the lip lip fluid at first glance, and stretch Xu Wen's rats. ("Lu Wang and the wild vegetables show Yashu's use of rewards") Bull lips, also known as Zexie; rat ears, mice, grass. All kinds of wild vegetables are not only delicious, but also a testimony of the friendship.

Compared to wild vegetables, Pipi Ruku may prefer various fertile fish. In his poems, there are many places where fresh fish and fish are dried. He also wrote a poem specifically. Thanks to Lu Guimeng for half of the three -foot fish fished from the Songjiang River. After receiving this gift, Pi Rixiu quickly put it on the table, so that the fish's "cold scales interrupted the elm money, and the cold bones were flat and jade" ("Feng and Lu Wang Xie Hui's giant fish") Essence "Songjiang" in the Tang and Song dynasties did not refer to Shanghai Songjiang today, but Wusongjiang. The ancient Wusong River water was huge and was one of the main flood discharge channels of the Taihu Water system. In Suzhou's experience, Pi Ri, who experienced the exquisite life, naturally refused to let Jiang Xian delicious, and chose a day to taste a "golden jade". There is a poem as a proof: "The Jun Jun can have nothing to meet each other, and when it comes to Jin Saiyu." (One of the three things in the new autumn)

The name of the dish of "Jin Yan (Jī) Jade" sounds rich and aggressive. In fact, it is similar to the sliced ​​fish slices often eaten by Japanese lovers. In the "Qi Min Yao Xi" of the Northern Wei Dynasty, there are already records of similar dishes. "齑" means mashed ginger, garlic, leek, etc., "Golden" is made of garlic, ginger, salt, white plum, orange peel, cooked chestnut meat and japonica rice. "Jade" refers to the fine -cut sashimi, named after it is white like jade. Wu Di Food's Wind is prevailing, and this "Jin Yingyu" must be even more unforgettable.

Modern recovered "Jin Yingyu", source: "China on the tip of the tongue 3"

Just as the poet wrote, "the sea bass fell to fish after the spring." If the well -known aquatic products in the Jiangnan area, the sea bass must occupy one seat. The most well -known variety in the sea bass is the "four cheeks bass" in Songjiang, Shanghai.

Regarding the four -gill bass, the earliest records can be traced back to Fan Chengda's "Wu Junzhi" in the Southern Song Dynasty: "Pass bass, raw pine rivers, particularly good. It is white and soft, but not fishy. There are also bass. The vulgar riversary fish are four gills, and the lake fish stops three gills. Said Lu, this fish is white and black, hence the name. "

(Qing) The four -gill bass in Nie Yan's "Sea Wrong Map"

In fact, the so -called "four gill bass" is the same as ordinary bass, only two gills. The reason why it is mistaken for the four gills is because in front of the gill holes of the two gills of the fish, each has a depression. It is orange -red in the reproductive season, which looks similar to the real gill hole. Since ancient times, the reputation of the "four -gill bass" of Songjiang has actually originated from such a small misunderstanding.

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All of them are fresh, and Cai Ning is still with Dongting smoke. - "Early Spring to Send Luwang with Orange"

The land of Jiangnan is rich in various fruits. Pi Ri, who lives here, naturally won't let them go. In the poem "Early Spring with Orange Sending Luwang", Pi Ri Xiu did not hesitate to write in and ink, and praised the beauty of Jiangnan Orange: "After the soul is broken, it is like the star marrow."

Dongting Orange

The red oranges of Dongting Mountain in Suzhou, "Everyone and branches are fresh, and Cai Ning still brings Dongting smoke", which is still a local specialty. Presumably, after Lu Guimeng received the fresh and delicious oranges sent by his friends, he was so comfortable that his body was more healthy.

Orange is a native to China, and it is not unusual to be favored by Chinese poets. For fruits with exotic descent, Pi Ri Yi also loves it. For example, he once wrote a "Pomegranate Song", thinking that the color of the pomegranate is like "Liuxia bag dyeing purple parrots, yellow wax paper wrapped in red (hù) room", and the pomegranate with dew was even more moving, as if " The jade carved curling is dew and wet, and it seems to be weeping with Xiang'e. "

Pomegranate was originally originally promoted to China after the return of Zhang Jian to the western region in Iran and Afghanistan. In the Sui and Tang dynasties, it has become a relatively common fruit, spreading all over the north and south of the river. The pomegranate flower is bright red and cute, and the pomegranate fruit is full of seeds, which means auspicious. Pomegranate ornaments are also common in various arts and crafts.

(Southern Song) Ma Lin's "Pomegranate Pomegranate Map", the Metropolitan Museum of Art Museum Collection

In addition to oranges and pomegranates, the fruits that Pisxiu occasionally brought in poetry included peach, plums, cherries, and wild fruits. It seems that the poet does not eat less fruits while swimming in the mountains.

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Xiangquan was breast -up, fried as a boiling boiling. —— "Cooking Tea"

The tea drinking method of the Tang Dynasty mainly focused on the "fried tea method", which was different from modern. From the perspective of modern people's eyes, the "tea" in Pi Ri Xiu poems may be closer to a bowl of light -colored paste soup.

After the Tang people pick up tea, they must first steam the tea and mash the tea, add starch, spices, etc., and pat it into cake shapes, roast them into tea cakes. When preparing fried tea, first remove the tea cake with a bamboo clip and roast it on the fire. After the tea cake is cooled, put it into the tea crushing into powder. After sieve, make the tea more delicate.

Tea -making flowchart in the Tang Dynasty: picking, steaming, pounding, shooting, roasting, wearing, sealing

The attention of fried tea is more complicated. You need to use "wind furnace" and "鍑 (fù)" (tea kettle). Inject water first in the tea kettle, and then boil the water on the wind furnace.

The degree of boiling of water is divided into three levels. When the fishe -eye bubbles appear in the water, when the "micro sound" appears, it is the first boiling. At this time, the appropriate amount of salt should be added to season. When the bubbles on the edge of the tea kettle are rushing up like spring, it is the second boiling. At this time, you need to scoop out some two boiling water and put it on the side to cool down, then use bamboo to stir in the center of the tea kettle, and roll it up. The tea beam is poured into the kettle. The "Xiangquan in Xiangquan in the Poetry of the Poetry, fried as a boiling" describes may be the scene at this time. Waiting for a moment, when the tea soup is rough, it is the third boiling. At this time, pour the water that was previously taken out into boiling water to cultivate "" soup flowers ", that is, foam. Different forms of soup flowers also have different names. "" ", Finely called" flower ".

At this point, the tea soup with "its colors (light yellow) also" has been cooked, and the cooked tea can be separated in the tea cup.

(Tang) Yan Liben's "Xiao Yi Earn Lanting Map" (partial), Liaoning Provincial Museum Collection

The two servants in the painting are busy fried tea and dividing tea

When Pi Riqiu was drinking tea, he not only noticed the process of fried tea, but also described the tea set. The "Xing Ke and Yue people can make magnetic devices in" Miscellaneous Charity in Tea "in" Tea ". Documents that are widely quoted.

(Tang) White glaze tea, Chinese Tea Museum Collection

The work of Pi Richang's stay in Suzhou in general, in general, there is a fresh and natural atmosphere, which is very different from his poetic poetry that has always written and writes about the ancient discussions and shows the suffering of the people. This is because of the influence of Lu Turtle, but more importantly, maybe it is the place where Suzhou is beautiful and delicious everywhere, and it is easy to forget the troubles and feel relaxed and comfortable. In the Southern Dynasty writer Wu Jun said in "Zhu Yuan Si Shu" that the landscapes of Fuchun River can make "the kite flying the heavens, looking at the peaks to breathe; In terms of, perhaps the same effect.

At the end of the Tang Dynasty, Pi Rijiu joined Huang Chao's team, and the beauty of the food in Suzhou has been in his memory since then. I do n’t know if Pi Riqiu followed by the army, would you think of the leisure time that spent in Suzhou with his friends? Two years may not be very long, but I think that the years with food, beauty, and friends, regardless of the length of time, must be unforgettable and can make people always reflect.

Reference materials:

Wang Yanfang's "Wu Di Food Culture in Wu Ri Wu Di"

Wang Sai's "Collection Food of the Tang Dynasty"

Miao Yan's "Thoughts and his works of Pi Ri Xiu"

Huang Wei's "Songjiang Pass Test"

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