Jiangsu "Crab Sky" debuted, which is the ultimate "handle"

According to the News Office of the Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crab Industry Association of Yangcheng Lake in Suzhou, this year's hairy crabs were arrested on September 23 in Basheng, Kunshan. The golden season of crab eating in the year is finally coming.

From the beginning of Qin, there are records of human eating crabs. There are many masters who eat crabs in the dynasties. Yuan Mei is recognized as the leader of the crab industry. As a big food province, it is not a problem to organize a "Jiangsu Crab Sky Tour".

Pineapple chrysanthemum crab pages (partial) Qing · Renyi now hides the Beijing Palace Museum in Beijing

People eat crab, crab "eat" people

Kunshan, where the arrest is located this year, was built by Wu Wangzhang. The five lakes are filled with films and dense rivers and lakes. It is a place where hairy crabs are produced. The first domestic crab culture museum is also located here. In Bacheng, there is also a Papura Garden, which has a statue of Bajie. It is said that Pakistani is the first person to eat crab.

In fact, it is difficult to say who is the first to eat crabs. In the classics, the earliest crab eating records came from "Zhou Li". According to the book, the "Crab in Qingzhou" that Zhou Tianzi eats is said to be a crab sauce. This is the way to eat after processing. In the Liangzhu Culture of Taihu Basin more than 5,000 years ago, and the sites of Songze Culture in Shanghai, a large number of crab shells are found. Some scholars have inferred that this is the "kitchen waste" left by ancient humans.

In terms of crab, the ancients left many beautiful words.

Bi Zhuo is the first crab -enchanting person in history. With this as the first delicious food in food, it is a great thing for life. He is a crab -flavored discoverer, admirer and advocate. If you talk about eating crabs, he always lifts out of Bi Zhuo.

"Jin Shu Bi Zhuo" records that Xin Cai (now Henan) people Bi Zhuo, often drinking day and night and abandoning business. The neighbor was cooked, and Bi Zhuo was arrested for drinking and drinking. The next day the host discovered that it was Bi Zhuo, and immediately loosened. But Bi Zhuo didn't care. He pulled the owner to drink beside the wine, drunk.

Bi Zhuo once said a well -known words, and was talked about: "Get hundreds of wines with hundreds of dendial ships, set up two ends with sweet flavors at four o'clock, hold the wine glass in the right hand, hold the crab to the left hand, and shoot a floating wine boat. . "There is a wine and a crab, and it is perfect. Because of this sentence, Bi Zhuo was called crab god by future generations.

Bi Zhuo opened the new fashion of "crab drinking". "Left Crab and Right Holding wine" has become a crab style for the following. On the occasion of the summer and autumn of 754, Li Bai accompanied Zhao Yan, the captain of Tu County, to Guantao, Yangzhou, and made a special trip to accompany Zhao Yan to return to Dang Tu. Li Bai wrote in the poem "Send Dang Tu Zhao Shaofu to Chang Lu": "Shake the fan to the restaurant, hold the crab cheek." On the restaurant, he sat in opposite Zhao Yan and talked about The crab came, pulled up the sleeve, and pinched the crab on his hand. For Li Bai, wine must not be available, and crabs are also rare and delicious. In "Under the Moon", he said: "Crab chews are golden liquid, and the mound is Penglai." There is a crab wine, just like Penglai, drinking the golden liquid fairy Dan of Xianjia. What kind of fairy life is this!

After the Tang Dynasty, people also liked crab wine. Song people Su Song: "Right holding the wine to the left to hold the cheek, generous singing and loaning"; Wu Jiang people Wang Shucheng in the Ming Dynasty: "How can the chela do to make Fang Zhen, and the long -faced call Guo Guo Suo"; Garden to eat crabs: "Only unblocking the chelars to the wine glass, then ask the Junjun Village Store." It is modern, and this method of eating crab is also perfectly inherited. When Zhou Enlai returned to his hometown, he also had "four lice talked about four shocks, holding the chelated wine that year".

As far as the method of eating crab is concerned, it can be said that it has been innovative since the past, and new ideas are endless. In the Wei and Jin dynasties, crabs had cooking forms such as steaming, frying, noodles, and drunk. In the Song Dynasty, citizens' culture rose, and dozens of crab foods such as fried crabs, crab crabs, crab crabs, gangsters, white crabs, sip -signed, and splash crabs attracted many guests.

In the eyes of modern people, crabs are a delicious food. It looks like a "paper tiger" that is more powerful. But in fact, crabs also have its laws of survival. In its world, there are both reproductive travels and mating, spawning, and incubation to Haikou; there are also traveled to the river to travel to inland lakes for easy feeding. They follow their original life. Even if it brings human disasters. There are many records of crab disasters in historical books.

Taking Kunshan as an example, in the autumn of 1529, Kunshan "flying locusts to the sky, hurricane made, locust enters the sea, and its legacy is transformed into crab, eating rice." This year, Kunshan suffered a locust accident and then suffered a crab disaster. Ninety years later, a crab disaster happened in Kunshan, "crab food, full of fields."

In addition to Kunshan, other places in Suzhou, which are rich in hairy crabs, also suffered crab disasters. In 1307, "Wuzhong crabs are like locusts, all the fields are full, and the rice is exhausted." The crabs are like locusts. They are covered with fields and eat the rice in Suzhou.

To the north, Taixing, in 1477, "Taixing County Crab hurts Tian He, and the Ministry of Households Langzhong Guyi" is also a disaster in crabs, causing crops to be collected.

To the north, Liaoshui, in 1627, "The river rises a lot, crabs hurt the grasses, and the money is free of money." The river rises steeply, the crab swarms ashore, and hurts the valley, so that the government has to remove the money and food that needs to be paid that year.

And so many crabs, in addition to capturing it and eating it, what else can it be eliminated?

Lotus leaf crab (partial) Southern Song Dynasty, Anonymous is now hiding Beijing Palace Museum

Who is the "handle" of crab eating crab

Because of the dense water network, Jiang, Lake, River, Ribet, Pond, and Water coexist, Jiangsu's hairy crabs have always occupied half of the country in the country. Correspondingly, Jiangsu has become a big crab province for natural and controversy. This is not only the case, but also in ancient times. In the Kunshan in the Song Dynasty, there was a painter named Shen who loved crabs and was good at cooking crabs. He couldn't support his family by painting, just painting and selling money while cooking. In Changshu during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, "Crab Society" was also popular. When eating crab, "each person had a crab eating gear: a small hammer, a small knife, a small pliers. Search for it. "

A number of leaders have emerged in crab eating activities with such a wide range of masses.

In the Tang Dynasty, the land turtles who lived in Suzhou not only ate crabs, but also studied crabs. The article "Crab" explored the process of crab swimming.

In the Song Dynasty Wuxi, Fei Tisan wrote a crab story in his notes.

Zhang Ye is a Huaian, one of the "Simon Four Bacants". He has liked to eat crabs since he was a child, and it hurts Feng Po when he was late. As far as he said, at this time, he should not eat cold crabs anymore, but he eats crabs, "picking its meat, storing giant cups and eating." I even wrote a poem to justify that crab and wind have nothing to do:

"The world's crab is very poisonous, and the gesture of food is multiplied. Wind lascivious is the last disease.

It is said that crab poisonous, excessive consumption, will get rheumatism. But I read the medical book, but I disappeared at all. In the end, Zhang Yan said that the folk rumors are mostly different because of love and hate, and they are different, not necessarily credible, so I would rather believe in the medical book.

In the Qing Dynasty, the Suzhou people Youyou wrote a "Crab Fu". In the Fu, he first praised the good virtues of crab, and then expressed the joy of eating crab to eat crab:

Wearing a stomach, the mouth contains females; the spirit is full of belly, the fat and meat is full of court; Taste first; drink or beggar, eat ginger; shoot with Bi Zhuo's wine, and He's sugar ...

Large: A crab is wearing armor, there is a cream and yellow, and it bumped in the chaos until it broke into the crab net. The greedy old lady saw it, and she was surprised and mad. Immediately let the kitchen lady cook, taste it first, and let the vinegar and ginger. At this time, you can drink and eat crabs like Bi Zhuo. As for eating, you can learn the Southern Dynasty Liangren He Yan and make a sugar crab.

Li Yu, who is in the same time as You and You, also likes to eat crabs very much. Li Yu was born in Zhejiang. He was born in Rugao and has moved his family in Nanjing for more than 20 years. When the crab was not listed, he had prepared a crab money. The family laughed at him with crab and buying crab money to buy money. From the beginning of the crab listing to the end of the market, "it has not been tasting overnight, the defect for a while" is to eat every day. Considering that the crab is the season, let the family make drunk crabs and bad crabs. There is a niece at home to control the matter.

Li Yu believes that "the crab in the south is compared with the mountains and the sea, and it is the first to live, and the taste of crab is also criticized. The wonderful.

In the aspect of eating crabs, Li Yu believes that crabs should be "self -ordering and eating". "Everyone who rules him can be allowed to do it. I enjoy it. The three types of crabs, the seeds of the melon, and the rhombus keratory must be worked on their own. "".

This view, Yuan Mei also fully agreed. Yuan Mei is a native of Qiantang, Zhejiang. Later, he lives in Jiangning and authored "Sui Garden Food List" to win the reputation of the gourmet. There are 326 types of dishes, including 4 crab dishes.

Yuan Mei believes that the crab is cooked with light saline, which is the best. At that time, steamed crabs were popular in society at that time. His claims, he did not know if he really practiced the truth, or did it deliberately.

These four kinds of crab dishes are quite creative. Such as the first type: "Peel the crab shell, take the meat to get yellow, and still put it in the shell, put five or six steamed on the raw eggs. When the table is served, a crab is used, but the claws are the same. New color. "

Another example is fried crab flour, and he must also stripped and fried, and said, "Common people set up crab flour in bird's nest ... It is not very contrary to Tang Yao and Su Jun?" Emperor Yao was an ancient character in ancient times. And Su Jun is the general of the Jin Dynasty. After thousands of years, how can I sit together? In his opinion, this is very ridiculous.

In the late Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, another crab -loving man appeared in Jiangsu. That is Li Ruiqing, who was the supervisor of Jiang Ningtu and the supervision of the Liangjiang Normal School. Because I like crab, I am named Li Bai crab.

Chen Bangxian wrote in "Zi Mian Zhai Note ・ Li Baibu": He likes to eat crabs, and he must have a hundred hundred every eaten, so everyone calls him "Li Baica". It is a special constitution if he eats too much, but if he eats nothing after eating.

Is Li Ruiqing really eating a hundred crabs at a time? His friend Xu Ke recalled the scene of a meal in 1915: He gave me the meal, and saw that he had 52 crabs. When he was said to have been 76, he had a oral pain for three days.

Although there are less than a hundred, compared to the "Donalt Digital" of Lu Yisheng in the Tang Dynasty, and the "from the beginning of the beginning to the beginning of the sea" in the early Qing Dynasty, Li Ruiqing's number of crabs is accurate. Can compare.

When Li Ruiqing lived in seclusion in Shanghai, she suffered from her astringent, but she painted a small crab and talked to solve it. Seeing by his friend Feng Qiubai, he was greatly appreciated. He went to the three baskets of umbilical crabs of the Yangcheng Lake Golden Mao Tuan of the Yangcheng Lake in Su Shi to change the painting. The Qing Dao people were crab atxia, and they cut love and hundreds of pieces.

There are countless celebrities who eat crabs in Jiangsu. Li Bai, Zhang Ye, You Yan, Li Yu, Yuan Mei, Li Ruiqing ... If they form a crab -eating group, they will be among them. Crab fish map (partial) Ming Xu Wei now hides the Tianjin Museum

How expensive can ancient crabs be

According to media reports, because of the continuous high temperature this year, hairy crabs were generally affected, and they were less than previous years. The posture of the market has also led to the price of hairy crabs this year may "walk sideways." Some practitioners estimate that the price of this year should have a 1/4-1/3 increase compared to last year. There are also media that the two pairs of gift boxes of 6.5 dual male crabs and 4.5 dual -fellow crabs are priced at more than one bottle of flying Moutai, up to 2,400 yuan.

The price of crabs is high and low, and the market is described. In ancient times, the price of crabs often fluctuated. When there is both "no matter money", there is "one straight money".

Wang Anshi once asked Jiangyin to serve. For this reason, he regretted it. When talking about Jiangyin, he wrote: Overseas pearls often enter the city, fish and crabs on the world are not worthy, and the local soil is beautiful and beautiful. At the time of Huzhou, there was a poem, and there was a sentence: Purple crab bass was as cheap as so on, so what had been paid for money. It can be seen that eating crabs in the season is still cheap.

The Tang Dynasty Duancheng once recorded a story: In order to tribute crabs in Hebei, the person in Hebei had to break the ice fishing crab in winter. "Hanging old dog meat, crab feel old dog meat floats, because it takes it, a straight gold." Things are rare and expensive, and you need to eat live crabs in winter.

When Song Renzong, he saw a total of 28 crabs on the table and asked: How much is this one worth? Answer: One thousand. Renzong is not happy, this time the chopsticks will be 28,000 yuan, which is too expensive. Judging from Renzong's "I haven't tasted it yet", this should be that the crabs have not been listed in large quantities. If you want to taste fresh, it is naturally expensive.

Reference materials: "Chinese Crab History" Qiancang Water is published in November 2019 in Guangxi Normal University Press

Edit: Qin Xiaoyi

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