1508: Exploring the weaving and embroidery technology

Author:Music club Time:2022.07.27

1508, Ningbo, Shaoxi Digital, later studied Western philosophy abroad. For seventeen years of professor at the University of Meimei, he opened courses such as existentialism, religious history, and Chinese art. Favorites since childhood, began in stamp coins, and then transferred to miscellaneous items. In recent years, the main interests are porcelain. For him, collection is a process of exploration. He used to be the president of the North American Chinese Philosopher Association, and writes philosophy and collection books.


Exploring and embroidery technology

1508


1. Filament (point composition)

The pattern of the silk is woven, the dotted composition, the same as the opposite. It has always been praised by Silk, exaggerating its value. The actual handed down silk number is quite large, and the craftsmanship is thick and detailed. It is not that the silk is valuable, but it depends on the age, the degree of work, color matching, and pattern quality. Most of the handed down old filaments are in the 19th and 20th centuries. It is rare in the early Ming and Qing dynasties. In the market, it is often launched in the early Qing Dynasty in the early Qing Dynasty/Republic of China.


1A, Late Qing Dynasty silk silk

In the late Qing Dynasty, the silk silk is very common. The details of the weaving+painting patterns are high. They have the appearance and patterns, but the craftsmanship is flat, the point is thicker and the gap is large. In the following late Qing Dynasty, Jiupin practiced silk supplement, and the craft pattern was flat.

Figure 1A_1

Figure 1A_2

Figure 1A_3

Figure 1A_4


1B, "Bark Gold" in the late Qing Dynasty

This late Qing Buzi is the "bird Jinqiu" process mentioned in the Dream of Red Mansions. Its pattern is mediocre, but the craft has a collection value. It uses wild duck (brown) and peacock hair (green) and threads. See Figure 1b_1 to Figure 1b_5. From Figure 1b_4, Figure 1B_5 (200 times the micro -map), it can be seen that wild duck hair and peacock hair are around the latitude line, and the white is money.

This is worn in winter, and its highlights are the crystal feeling of duck -haired sparrow -like light, and the golden line flashes, which is still beautiful in winter snow.

Figure 1b_1

Figure 1b_2

Figure 1b_3

Figure 1b_4

Figure 1b_5


1C, early "duck gold" silk silk

This Kangxi Silk is a fine silk, and its fine density is much better than the late Qing Dynasty. It is woven with duck hair (brown).

Its golden bottom is fine and has a metal texture, not like the kind of mesh gap in the late Qing Dynasty (please compare the mesh gap of Figure 1A_4). See Figure 1c_1 to Figure 1C_5. Please see the characteristics of Figure 1C_5 duck wool winding.

Figure 1c_1

Figure 1c_2

Figure 1c_3

Figure 1c_4

Figure 1c_5


1D, the density of late Qing and early Qing Dynasty.

Figure 1d_1 is the late Qing Dynasty, Figure 1d_2 is early. The white ones are the meridians.

Figure 1d_1

Figure 1d_2


2. Na yarn embroidery (point -like and line -like composition)

2A, Tongzhi Na yarn dotted dragon robe residual film (Figure 2A_1 to Figure 2A_5)

The rust is the fine embroidery method of Na yarn, that is, the oblique dot composition at the bottom of the bottom. This dragon is smaller and naughty (designed for children), with twelve chapters. The bottom and crafts are similar, so it may be a dragon robe piece worn by Tongzhi as a child.

Figure 2A_1

Figure 2A_2

Figure 2A_3

Figure 2A_4

Figure 2A_5


2B, Late Qing Na Sa "pile brick" embroidered leopard supplement (Figure 2b_1 to Figure 2B_4)

According to the characteristics of the fabric, Na yarn can have multiple embroidery methods. This is the way to embroidery in the point and line, accumulate

Such as bricks, foreigners are called "brick stitch). Leopard print is Wu Sanpin.

Figure 2b_1

Figure 2b_2

Figure 2b_3

Figure 2b_4


3. Seed embroidery (Figure 3_1 to Figure 3_3)

Seed embroidery has a three -dimensional feeling and wear resistance. The point composition, but the point of the late Qing Dynasty was thicker, about 1 mm in diameter. The following late Qing leopard supplement, the sun is right, so it is a woman, Mrs. Sanpin.

Figure 3_1

Figure 3_2

Figure 3_3


4. Locking Zi Embroide

This is similar to the seed embroidery, and it is also a small garden point, but the garden point is much smaller than the seed embroidery, and then the structure

The visual effect of the figure is still the main line, but the line consists of small dots. Specific embroidery method is made of coarse wire

Chain, then nail on the fabric with thin lines.

The Dream of Red Mansion 92: "Sister Sister Earnia:‘ I also learned to do it with Mother Liu. What kind of flowers and locks.


4A, Laosko embroidery in the late Qing Dynasty, please look at the density of the line (such as the sun, etc.), the better the density, the better. See Figure 4A_1 to Figure 4A_4.

Figure 4A_1

Figure 4A_2

Figure 4A_3

Figure 4A_4


4B. The court pillow in the 18th century, published in the book before. This is the earliest pull -ups embroidery, which should be about age or quality as mentioned in the Dream of the Red Mansion. Please see the sense of lines of its pattern and the characteristics of the embroidery method in the micro -diagram. See Figure 4b_1 to Figure 4b_4.

Figure 4b_1

Figure 4b_2

Figure 4b_3

Figure 4b_4


5. Flat needle line -like composition

It is the most common way of embroidery, but the real skills are only seen in ordinary. A good flat needle is not lost to any other kind of weaving embroidery.


5A.18 century long and short needle: The 18th century emperor Sun/Princess Dragon Bu, the craftsmanship is superb. The color gradients of bats and peaches here are long and short needles. See Figure 5A_1, Figure 5A_2. Figure 5A_1

Figure 5A_2

5B.19th century long and short needle: This article is unusual to make the halo of lotus. Please see the long and short needle structure in bird feathers. See Figure 5b_1 to Figure 5b_3.


Figure 5b_1

Figure 5b_2

Figure 5b_3

5c. Late Qing Qi needle: This supplement is not a text supplement, nor is it martial arts, but the judge. See Figure 5C_1 to Figure 5C_3.


Figure 5c_1

Figure 5c_2

Figure 5c_3

5D. Republic of China, Nongzi, 9 chapters, which are used by the first -class officials below the president, the quality of the flat needle embroidery is thicker, which is much worse than the 5C late Qing Dynasty. See Figure 5d_1 to Figure 5d_3.


Figure 5d_1

Figure 5d_2

Figure 5d_3

6.


With the density of the line, the accuracy of the pattern is high. The following nights are supplemented by a pair. The quality of the golden buckle line is good. For example, the cloud pattern has four sets of lines (eight) disks in the middle circle. The density is good in the same kind. See Figure 6_1, Figure 6_2.

Figure 6_1

Figure 6_2

7. brocade


Thicker than silk, but wear resistance.

7A.17 century brocade. Figure 7A.


Figure 7A

7B.18/19th century colorful brocade, published in the book before, was on the throne of Jiaqing. See Figure 7b_1 to Figure 7b_3.


Figure 7b_1

Figure 7b_2

Figure 7b_3

(Finish)

This article has been authorized by the author. The picture and text are provided by the author.


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