I would like to commemorate this article to the Favorite Favorites Forum: "Rebirth of Textile Machinery"

Author:Music club Time:2022.07.09

Editor's note:

The Fuxing Zhiyuan Collection Forum opened in 2002 has gathered a group of young people who explore the collection culture. Under this banner, appreciate, discuss the Tao, explore, learn, and swim with ancient people, from the ancient items, folklore, historical history of history Announcement, find the blood of the nation.

Fuxing Zhiyuan is the first collection forum that pays the old silver collection and spending money as an important collection door category. At that time, the revival brought together a good master at home and abroad. Special editions such as silver, ethics, porcelain miscellaneous, coins, printed, weapons, jade, and Songliao gold cultural relics. A large number of top masters who are active in the collection industry in the future are here.

Fuxing Zhiyuan is also the first forum that combines collections and academics. The academic exploration of teachers and classmates of the Chinese Department of Chinese Department of Peking University was unforgettable. Revival the introduction of calligraphy experts, folklore scholars, and cross -border unite of collecting objects.

The revival is nostalgic, and the friendship formed in the revival is forever. Everything, gratitude.

Below we are equipped with an article to commemorate the Fuxing Zhiyuan Collection Forum. This was an article at the beginning of the birth of Fuxing in 2002. Alexkaikai, a Fuxing Special Commissioner, went to Suzhou to visit Mr. Zhu Jianming. Zhu Jianming was restored to nearly a hundred ancient weaving machines at the Suzhou Silk Museum at that time. In order to increase the readings of reading, we re -configured several related pictures materials. In terms of articles, we presented the original text of the small little.

In the future, we will organize some information of the Fuxing Favorites Forum in the future to display it in a suitable way.

Rebirth of Textile Machines --- Zhu Jianming

——Fushing Zhiyuan Special: Alexkaikai

Knowing Mr. Zhu Jianming is an accidental opportunity, but this time, this time, I changed my understanding of a lot of the past ...

At the low -rise bungalow door of the Pearl Museum in the Suzhou Silk Museum, Mr. Zhu received me. Due to the shallow social experience, I never thought I would look at people. When I was facing a pair of thick hands, I still wonder if I stand in front of me. I am the one described by a friend: an expert in ancient Chinese textile machine. It is clearly a middle -level cadre.

After some talks, Mr. Zhu told me his story:

"I have been studying Chinese textiles since 80 years. I have been in the past few years. In this long years, it is full of hardships and happiness. When I stand in front of a huge ancient weaving machine, I project it through the sun and project on the wall. The machine shadow, thought through the time and space of history, seemed to return to ancient times, and communicated with the ancients without speaking.

Han Dynasty Textile Picture Information (Miles Information)

As for why the recovery of ancient Chinese textile machines, at first it was just out of the preference for traditional Chinese culture, but over time, it gradually emitted a brilliant cultural excavation in the bottom of my heart. And the idea of ​​promoting it, do not want to have some regrets behind that long history. "

Speaking of which, Mr. Zhu's face was serious, revealing a trace of sadness in his blood -filled eyes.

(The author's note: China is one of the birthplaces of world civilization. In the development of science and technology, our ancestors have made brilliant contributions to humans. Textile production has experienced two leaps in history. The handmade mechanization characterized by hand -made machines such as spinning and weaving, and the second is the large industrialization characterized by power machines.

The first leap has been completed around 500 BC, and the leading momentum has continued until the eighteenth century. It is now on the eve of the third leap. After the past comes, Wen Zhi knows the new. It is our purpose. Here is a microcosm of the history of textile in my country, which helps to look at the future today. But even so, how many people can be like Mr. Zhu Jianming, like Mr. Zhu Jianming, will discover the long history of China and praise it as a person who has the goal of pursuing and struggle for his life? )

Han Dynasty textile map Han painting stone information Xinyi unearthed in the Xuzhou Han portrait Stone Art Museum (information of Leyi Club)

"The ancient textile technology technology of our country is very developed, and the superb silk is famous for the world. In addition to the clever technology of my country's handicraft workers, the invention and continuous innovation of textile tools have also played a great role. Our ancestors started to use it very early "Textiles" for spinning, in many Neolithic ruins throughout my country, once found this original spinning tool. This method of spinning is quite primitive handmade labor, both laborious and slow, and of course yield and quality They are all very low. With the development of social production, a hand -shaking single -ingot spinning vehicle appeared, and quickly replaced the textiles.

The records of textilers were first seen in the "Dialects" of the Western Han Dynasty, and in the "Dialects", it was called ‘car cars’ and ’s“ Dao Dao ”. The earliest images of single -ingot spinning trucks are seen in Jinquan Mountain in Linyi, Shandong, and Chinese portrait stones. Therefore, it is speculated that the emergence of textilers should be earlier than this.

Han Dynasty textile map Han painting stone information Xinyi unearthed in the Xuzhou Han portrait Stone Art Museum (information of Leyi Club)

Although the structure of the Han Dynasty is relatively simple, because of the use of rope wheel transmission, the efficacy has been greatly improved than the spinning college. In 1972, the musical instrument called "Hansse" was unearthed in the tomb of the Hama Wangdui of Changsha; its string was made of sixteen single -silk stocks and a spin. Each is very uniform. Planting a spinning vehicle processing.

Since the Han and Tang dynasties, with the opening of the "Silk Road" at that time, the high level of silk fabrics such as Jin, Luo, 绫, and Qi have gradually spread to the West. The use of these high -level silk fabrics and spinning vehicles is inseparable. In the process of production practices such as spinning, silk, cotton, etc., in order to improve quality and output, the labor people created a spinning and hydraulic spinning vehicle based on hand -shaking spinning vehicles. Han Dynasty textile map Han painting stone information Xinyi unearthed in the Xuzhou Han portrait Stone Art Museum (information of Leyi Club)

At the end of the Song Dynasty and the beginning of the Yuan and early Yuan, Wu Niwu, the Yudao Po of Songjiang, learned a cotton textile technology from the Li nationality in Yazhou, Hainan (now Sanya City, Hainan Province), and then returned to his hometown to change the spinning texture used for spinning to three ingot Cotton spinning vehicle, and summarized a set of spinning technology. At the same time, she also innovated cotton and cotton -mopping tools. The output of spinning yarn was greatly improved, which changed the backward appearance of the Songjiang area at that time. She also concluded and raised the weaving technologies such as "wrong yarn, color matching, complex, and care" in the weaving, so that at that time, the Songjiang area was one of the cotton textile centers.

(Original original picture)

Immediately developed into a weaving, so that not only can you see whether the meridian tension on the passage of the passage on the mouth at a glance is uniform, and there is a broken side of the meridian. More importantly, the oblique machine has adopted the opening device of the pedaling comprehensive. When the pedals are raised, the rope that is touched by the pedal is pulled "horse head", leaning back and backwards, which makes the closure of the closure, divide the meridian gauze into two layers up and down, forming a triangular woven port. For the use of hand and foot, replace the heavy movements of hand -to -hand comprehensive with both feet, so that the left and right hands can be used more quickly and effectively in the work of latitude and stagnation.

Han Dynasty textile map Han painting stone information Xinyi unearthed in the Xuzhou Han portrait Stone Art Museum (information of Leyi Club)

The productivity of the oblique machine can be increased by more than ten times compared to the original weaving, which can greatly increase the cloth output. On the occasion of Qin and Han dynasties, the oblique weaving machines are more common in the vast areas of the Yellow River Basin and the Yangtze River Basin in my country, and this kind of weaving machine is widely used in rural areas. Using the small and exquisite shuttle, wearing the weft gauze, which further improves the speed of weaving, is one of the major innovations of the weaving tools, which has been used by future generations.

Zhu Jianming made a textile model (original original picture)

The jacquard machine is a mechanical machine that weaves the tirled fabric. In ancient my country, it was inseparable from the invention and use of the flowering machine. As early as four thousand years ago, the ancient labor people had woven oblique fabrics with simple geometric patterns. In the tomb of the Yin Shang royal family in Dashang Village, Yinxu, Anyang, Henan Province, there was a trace of the filament silk fabric wrapped in a geometric back pattern wrapped on the copper cymbal.

This is a fabric that is obliquely oblique on the monochrome plain ground, called "Qi". In the Zhou Dynasty, it was able to weave multi -color biochemical threatening. This shows that my country has already used the flowering machine very early. Some people think that in the pre -Qin history books, the text records are already related to the flowers. It is said that at that time, there was already a relatively complicated flowering agency, which could generally be weaving a more complicated pattern in accordance with the law of "three soldiers".

(Original original picture)

During the Qin and Han dynasties, the silk industry is more prosperous. The court set up a western weaving room kimono, and a handicraft workshop with thousands of weaving workers appeared. The silk blooming technology has reached a considerable level. There are a number of bird patterns in the tomb of the Hama Gongxian Han tomb in Changsha, flowers, water wave patterns, dragons, leopard prints, and the first discovered velvet brocade. , It is an important development of Lifangling.

The elaboration machine in the early Han Dynasty can analyze the structural analysis of the fluffy brocade unearthed from the Han tomb of Ma Wangdui, and it can be roughly known for its institutional characteristics. The bracketing technology of the velvet circle brocade is quite complicated. This fabric structure is a double -sided change of double -sided changes in the fabric. According to the weaving width, it is calculated by fifty centimeters. thousand. The weaving process technology has used a group of littering beam comprehensive devices, as well as dual -meridian axis agencies that are separated from the land and velvet meridians.

Eastern Han Textile Pictures Han Drawing Stone Data Museum unearthed from Xuzhou Han Portrait Stone Art Museum (information of Leyi Club)

Regarding the Western Han Dynasty, the "Xijing Miscellaneous Ji" has a record: "Huo Guang's wife Yichun Yuyan ... Pu Pianjin twenty -four horses, scattered flowers and twenty -five horses. To spread its law, Huo Xian called into the first and made it. The machine was used for one twenty -twenty -twenty -twenty -twenty -twenty -day one, and it was straight. "

Due to the record of "Xijing Miscellaneous", the specific system of the flower litter used by Chen Baoguang's wife is difficult to speculate. In the Eastern Han Dynasty Wang Yi's "Maternal Fu", you can generally understand some outlines. Among them, the "high -rise building and double aggressive" refers to the comprehensive confrontation of the flower tower and the bouquet of the jets. Flower comprehensive. Wan Huagong overlooks the smooth and bright wing, just like "down the Qingchi", the woven pattern is vividly visible.

"Fish Walking Bait" refers to the line that touches the comprehensive lines on the flower floor of the flower. Line bamboo sticks are the feet. Generally, more than a thousand roots are needed. Fight as fast as food. Leading different sutras, there are flexion and extension. From the side, it is indeed a star map that is used to drawing in the Han Dynasty. "One go and one" refers to the latitude of "pushing and attracting". Draw the principle of the role of the glutinous rice machine as Virgin, and the flowering process is also very vivid. Eastern Han Textile Pictures Han Drawing Stone Data Museum unearthed from Xuzhou Han Portrait Stone Art Museum (information of Leyi Club)

Due to this complicated flowering machine, it is generally not easy to promote in the folk, nor can it meet the needs of further development of the feudal economy. Ma Jun, who Fufeng (now Xingping, Shaanxi) in the early years of the Three Kingdoms, saw that the flowering machine was very complicated and the production efficiency was very low. Knowing its coincidence. The old machine fifty comprehensive fifty, sixty comprehensives, sixty, and sixty comprehensives. Biography "Pei Songzhi (372-451) quoted Wei Jin literary scholar Fu Xuan (217-278)).

Eastern Han Textile Pictures Han Drawing Stone Data Museum unearthed from Xuzhou Han Portrait Stone Art Museum (information of Leyi Club)

The weaved jacking brocade, the pattern is peculiar, the flower type changes many, and it improves the production efficiency of the flowers. Although there is no more information to explain the specific system of Ma Jun's innovation bistic machine, as far as the number of varieties is concerned, it is closer to the alcoholic machine in the Southern Song Dynasty.

The most specific and complete ancient blooming model system we know now is in the "Tiantong Kaifu · Nai Sui" recorded in Song Yingxing in the Ming Dynasty: "Fanhua machine is one six feet long and six feet, and the flower tower is up. Mid -care, drooping feet ... ... Titania Xiaoyu sitting on the wooden rack "lower. The barrier rolled at the end of the machine. Yu Xun's two ends. "The so -called" flooding "here is now called the panel, the so -called" feet "is now called the lower column, and the" bar "is the axis, and the" stacking rib "is a wooden wood. All the weaving gorgeous Sichuan Shujin and Nanjing Yunjin use this flower litter, which can be seen in today's historical museum.

Zhu Jianming made a textile model (original original picture)

In addition, the most difficult to master in the jet technology is to calculate the flower book. "Tiantong Kaiwan" said: "Everyone who is the most delicate in the blooming of the artisans is the most delicate. What kind of color of the artist first draws on the paper, the principal is formed by the amount of the line with the line, and Above the building. "That is to say, if people want to focus on the designed pattern. Now on the fabric, they have to make thousands of rough interaction with the patterns in accordance with the patterns. Make a whole set of pattern memory devices. The flowers are eased, and the machine is woven.

The weaving workers and Huahua workers cooperate with each other. According to the change of the flower book, the weaving lines are woven forward, and the magnificent patterns can be woven. Flower is also an important contribution to ancient textile artisans. "Speaking of which, Mr. Zhu Jianming guided me to the display cabinet of the display textile model and continued to introduce it carefully:

"Silk is a traditional product of China. In the process of long -term production of silk, many textile technologies that once belonged to the highest level in the ancient world have had a profound impact on the development of world textile sciences. An important part of cultural heritage.

China has a long history of weaving, and it has a long history. At first, it was used to use wild silk, and then used to use the use of family silk. The time to use the family silk, there are foundations to be checked, at least 5,000 years. When it was excavated in 1958, when the Qianshan Shinshi New Stone Times site (about 4700 years ago) was excavated, a small piece of silk and a ribbon were found.

Eastern Han Textile Pictures Han Painting Stone Information Tongshan unearthed in Xuzhou Han Portrait Stone Art Museum (information of music clubs)

China has always attached great importance to the production of silk. In Yin Shang's Oracle text, there is already the words of silk mulberry, indicating that the weaving of silk has occupied a certain position in social production. After Zhou Qin, the silk weaving industry became more developed. Some dynasties also clearly stipulate that areas where conditions are developed, and each farmer must plant several acres of mulberry fields and pay silk as taxes. As a result, the output of silk in the past has continued to increase.

Although the total number of production in each period has no exams, it can be seen from the individual extremely incomplete statistics that I know now. According to the ancient history records, Emperor Hanwu in Shanxi and Shandong had a hunting in Shanxi and Shandong. More than 1.17 million horses.

The silk weaving in ancient China has always been known for its wonderful and beautiful. At a long time, it continued to be exported to West Asia and European Africa through the "Silk Road" and the southeast coastal port. In ancient Rome and Egypt, both Chinese silk regarded Chinese silk as "glorious and eye -catching" treasures, and was proud of wearing this treasure. Merchants in many countries operate Chinese silk. Because of long -distance transportation, the price is extremely expensive. Sometimes the price of each pound of silk is as high as twelve or twelve. Until the thirteenth century AD, Chinese silk was still a best -selling product in the Western market.

Zhu Jianming made a textile model (original original picture)

The technology of making silk in China is very detailed. The production process is very complicated. The first is silk silk. After I passed a large number of historical materials and the current texture of the spinning machine, I imitated a filament machine with the same proportion. This is the first preparation process for making silk, which refers to pine cocoons and drawing silk. From the beginning, China has used silk to use a certain method of loosening and quoting. The process of loose solution has appeared in the works of the Warring States Period and the two Han Dynasty. It is to put the cocoons in boiling water and cook, and use the water temperature to remove gel. Later, we further summarized the concentration of mild water gum in the water, and the use of Wenhuo and properly added cold water to prevent the disadvantages of incomplete gels and flaws. It often makes the cocoon boiling water shape like a crab eye.

At the same time, pay attention to changing the soup, and the soup will appear to be silky but not bright. If the soup is not diligent, the shortcomings of silk will appear. The process of drawing the wire is to use a small wooden stick to pick up the already scattered filaments from the pan. Several synthesis of a rays: slender and complete synthetic fine stalks, relatively small roots; The number is slightly more; Most of the finest silk before the Northern and Southern Dynasties was five synthesis, and most of them were three synthesis after the Song Dynasty.

Eastern Han Textile Pictures Han Painting Stone Information Tongshan unearthed in Xuzhou Han Portrait Stone Art Museum (information of music clubs)

The second is that the silk is the further treatment and bleaching of the silk. Unobstructed silk is called raw silk, and the trained silk is called mature silk. The craftsmanship is similar to that of the silk. It is soaked in the water that has been pumped into the water containing beef gray, gray (gray burned ash) or black plum juice. Han used warm water and boiled water since the Eastern Han Dynasty. Then exposed in the sun. Dry and then wash. In this way, the alkaline substances in the gray water and the ultraviolet rays of the sunlight have a bleaching effect to improve the white cleanliness of the silk; on the other hand, the alkaline or acidic substances in the mild gray water or the oxia are used , Make the silk softer and easy to dye.

Nanjing Yunjin Information (Miles Information)

Once again, wearing and wearing comprehensive. Is the bamboo cricket on the weaving machine, and the comprehensive is the comprehensive 桄 on the weaving machine. The purpose of wearing and wearing comprehensive is to enable the meridians on the weaving machine to open the shuttle of the silk structure design during the weaving process.成 is a slender frame made of bamboo pieces. There are equal bamboo silk in the middle.

The comprehensive box made of wooden strips. There is a horizontal stick in the middle. There is a thin line on the upper and lower horizontal sticks. Use the silk rope to connect the horizontal stick, thin line and wooden frames. The trap is the tool that the "flexion rope scripture is opened and closed" before the Northern and Southern Dynasties. There is only one piece; the number of comprehensives is uncertain, at least two pieces, at least eight pieces, if the flowers can be increased to 16 pieces.

Wearing a puppet according to the design requirements, the meridians are grouped through each teeth. Putting through the design requirements, wearing the meridians in the comprehensive. If it is a plain weaving, one put on one piece of two trap on one piece of one, if it is a flower weaving, one should be worn with two pieces, and as needed, a piece of put on the trap, one on the trap The lower set.

The first record of the installation system appeared in the Han Dynasty. All the weaving machines have a flower building. The installation system is installed vertically on the flower tower. The wire is also called the big fiber; each pass is equivalent to a comprehensive film of the general weaving. The comprehensive eye is to accommodate the scriptures that are prepared. The number of threads is determined according to the number of flowers. Each pass can be suspended by two to seven roots, which is the "hanging" in modern texture.

The flower book is the direct source of the flowers of the flowers, so it is called "flower book". There are two types of flowers and flower tower flowers.

Zhu Jianming made a textile model (original original picture)

The editing method of the flower style is: Draw the pattern prepared to be knitted on a square cloth with the same number of latitude and latitude. You can also draw it on the paper first, and then pass it on the cloth. Use the separate meridians, the same Fangbu's meridians one by one overlap, and then use the separate latitude line, according to the position and size occupied by the painted pattern, replace the original cloth of the Fang cloth, put the original original, bring the original original The meridians are pulled out, and the new meridian is replaced by the new meridian to make the pattern reappear. In the Ming Dynasty Song Yingxing's "Heavenly Gong Kai" said, "What kind of paintings are painted on the paper first, and the compatriots are made with silk threads with the amount of drawing, and the calculation is formed in seconds." That is what it means.

The method of editing the flower of the flower tower is to connect the same amount of the sterilization lines and the same amount of the flowers on the flowers of the flower, lift the latitudes of the flower book, drive the wire, and use the other weft lines to cross the thread to the silk. Inside, you can pass the pattern on the flower building. The installation system and the flower tower flower are cooperated with each other. After the flowers of Hualou Huaman are completed, the flowers of the Huayou Huaman, that is, the flowers that show the flowers on the flower of the flower tower, and drive all the installation systems. It's right. "

(The author's note: Listening to Mr. Zhu Jianming's introduction, watching the various textiles he recovered, and suddenly found his historical knowledge about my country, especially those great designs and creations that reflect the wisdom of the working people in our country. . A kind of admiration for Mr. Zhu was born in the bottom of my heart.)

"Regarding the brocade, in ancient China, it sometimes refers to the silk fabrics with a variety of colors and patterns; Or the weaving fabric is more difficult to woven, it is the most valuable fabric in ancient times. Therefore, there was such a saying in ancient times: "Jin Jin also, the use of hard work, the price is like gold," it is like gold. " . Nanjing Yunjin Information (Miles Information)

This kind of fabric has two types of flowers and weft flowers, which are called Jingjin and Weijin. The Jingjin uses the same set of weft lines with two or more meridians. The meridians are mostly two or three colors, one color and one as a pair; if more colors are needed, you can also use the method of coloring strips. The weft lines are Mingwei and clamping weft; they are separated from the surface and bottom meridian of each pair of messes with clamping weft, and the front of the fabric can be displayed on the front of the fabric. In 1959, the Eastern Han Dynasty "Wannian Ruyi Jin" discovered by the Xinjiang Min Niya Site was divided into twelve -color strips in the five colors of routine, white, purple, light blue, and oil green, which is a typical scripture in the Han Dynasty.

Weijin uses the same group of latitude lines with two or more sets of latitude. The meridians have the interweaving and clamping meridians; In 1969, the Tang Dynasty socks discovered in Astana, Xinjiang, and the patterns of various birds and birds and Xingyun on the big red land belonged to this kind of brocade.

Jingjin and Weijin have different weaving effects. Jingjin's latitude is relatively low, with only one shuttle, and the production efficiency is relatively high. Weigin weaving is time -consuming, but more than two shuttle can be used, which is easy to change colors and rich colors. These two brocade appear early in China. However, before the Northern and Southern Dynasties, it seemed to be based on the flowers of flowers; after the Sui and Tang dynasties, it seemed to be based on the flowers.

Therefore, some foreign researchers believe that the weaving of China Weijin is introduced from foreign countries. This speculation is too one -sided, and China's Weijin is also created by China. In the past few years, Bazarak in the former Soviet Union discovered a group of silk in the Chinese Warring States Period.

Nanjing Yunjin Information (Miles Information)

Speaking of Jin, at present, I have made a deep understanding and excavation of the brocade texture of weaving in various places in my country. Yunjin in Nanjing, Song Jin in Suzhou, Shu Jin in Bashu, Zhang Jin in Fujian, Zhuangjin in Guangxi ...

Nanjing Yunjin is a traditional flower brocade satin in China's brocade craftsmanship. Because of its dedicated to the royal family, the materials are sophisticated, weaving work, and gorgeous patterns. Another saying that it is named because of its pattern and decoration of "cloud patterns".

Nanjing Yunjin Information (Miles Information)

The history of Nanjing Yunjin's production can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms period. During the Ming Dynasty, the brocade craftsmanship matured and improved, and the local characteristics of Nanjing silk brocade brocade were formed. In the Qing Dynasty, there was a "Jiangning Weaving Agency" in Nanjing. Yunjin weaving was very popular. During this period, there were many types of Yunjin, solemn patterns, and gorgeous colors. But after the ** war, Nanjing Yunjin quickly declined.

Nanjing Yunjin mainly includes four types: "flower satin", "weaving gold", "weaving brocade", and "makeup flowers". Especially "weaving gold" and "makeup flowers", the two kinds of achievements are the highest and richest local characteristics. The so -called "weaving gold" is made of patterns on the weaving materials with gold threads, and the gold thread is made of real gold and cut into silk. The "makeup flowers" fabrics are characterized by more colors and colorful, and some are also weaved, and they are weaved with unique digging makeup makeup crafts. This extremely complicated process can only be completed by hand -made machine until now.

The production of Nanjing Yunjin has always retained the traditional old -fashioned tirled flower wood machine. Each wechiers must cooperate with the two -person bistic workers and weaving workers. For one day, the two can only weave Yunjin 5 cm long. Therefore, there is a saying of "inch brocade". Yunjin has a solid texture, rich and beautiful pattern, strong color, and a large amount of golden lines, forming a unique style of golden and glorious.

Yun Jin used to dedicate to the palace and royal use. Now that ethnic minorities do clothing, they also exported high -end clothing fabrics abroad. Yunjin crafts are mostly traditional patterns such as dragons, phoenixes, and peony. They are rich and elegant, with strong decorative styles, and are very popular with Chinese characteristics. They are very popular.

Nanjing Yunjin Information (Miles Information)

The brocade of Suzhou began in the fifth generation. In the Song Dynasty, the Jiangnan Silk industry entered the heyday. In Suzhou, there was a very thin new type of brocade, which is an ideal calligraphy and painting mounting material. Suzhou Song Jin has the name of "the crown of splendid", and it is named with Nanjing Yunjin and Chengdu Shujin. Especially after the Song Gaozong Nandu, the political and cultural centers across the country moved to the Jiangnan region. In order to adapt to the special needs of the development of art, a very thin and detailed variety of calligraphy and painting varieties appeared in the brocade of Suzhou. Among them, there are varieties such as "Qinglou Terrace", Ziya Huayongjin "," Persimmon Cauda Back ".

These beautiful brocade and calligraphy and painting were preserved together. Therefore, later generations talked about Jin must be called Song, and Song Jin was named. Song Jin weaving has unique craftsmanship and has two sutras. It is divided into face and bottom scriptures, so it is also called heavy Jin. Song Jin's pattern is exquisite, elegant, flat, and antique. It can be divided into three categories: Dajin, Hejin, and Xiaojin. Dajin is finely organized, regular, and magnificent. It is often used for mounting precious calligraphy and painting, high -level gift boxes, and can also make special clothing and lace. Hejin is mixed with real silk with a small amount of yarn. The pattern is continuously symmetrical, and the vertical axis, the mounting of the screen strip and the general gift box are mostly used. Xiaojin is a finely mounted material for patterns, which is suitable for packaging boxes of small pieces of crafts. The production process mostly uses the "three oblique tissue", the two Jingsan and three weft, the meridian of the meridians with the bottom and facial meridian, and the bottom classic is a color cooked silk, as a ground pattern tissue; There are three types of latitude; one weft pattern and the ground are used. Its pattern is mostly geometric skeleton, and the flowers or discounts of small flowers or small flowers in the meantime are made. The geometric patterns include octa, serial, flying, and back to turtle. The color is multi -tone and color, without contrasting color. "

Shooting the textile model is Zhu Jianming's restoration model

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