[History and Culture] Sichuan historical celebrities and food (4) Yang Shen — the champion diet writes Fanchen Xu Jingguo

Sichuan historical celebrities and food

Unrestrained

Yang Shen — the champion diet book pan

Yang Shengzhang (1488-1559), namely, repaired, Sichuan New Capital. The famous scholar and writer of the Ming Dynasty, the only champion in Sichuan in the Ming Dynasty. Born in the first year of Hongzhi in the Ming Dynasty, he was a 4th year at the age of 24 and awarded the Hanlin Academy. In the three years of Jiajing (1524), Yang Shengzhang was exiled by Yongchang, Yunnan (now Baoshan City, Yunnan Province) due to the "discussion" incident. In the thirty -eighth year of Jiajing (1559), he died in the health place and was buried back to his hometown of Xinduyuan Grave.

Yang Shengzhang was born in the family of famous officials. His father, Yang Tinghe, was the first assistant of the Ming Dynasty Zhengde and Jiajing Dynasties. Yang Shengzhang's life of the group books, only the Ming Dynasty, the writing involving astronomical geography, golden stone calligraphy and painting, Jingshiyun, literature and art, music and opera, etc. The richness of the work is to be cautious. "Yang Shengzhang's food culture works mainly about meat, vegetables, aquatic products, non -food, condiments, tea, drinks, and food legends. There are many contents of food culture in "Shengyu Waiji", "Dan Lead Furtu", "Dan Lead Continue Records".

Yang Gongyu

There are many rivers and lakes in my country, with rich fishery resources, and fish occupy an important position in the ancient diet of the ancients. "Hanshu · Geography" cloud: "Pakistan, Shu, Guanghan ... the land is fat, there are rivers and fertile wild ... people eat rice and fish, and the death (none) is fierce." Yang Shengzhang in the hometown of fish and rice in Tianfu has a soft spot for fish eating, and has explored unique cooking methods after years of research.

Yang Shengyun: "Perch meat is very meaty, mixed with fragrant flowers and leaves, purple and green. Meat, the taste is very beautiful. A breath of mud, such as ground pepper. Back, spices. Xingxing is greasy, an almonds in Bayan, and the Yuanren "Drinking Rights" is used more. " Four)

This is a lively bass, plus the flowers and leaves of incense apricot, use the spice of beans, a breath of mud, is pepper. Bass, dark spots on the back, large mouth, flat body side, gray belly, living in Tamsui River Lake in the south of the river, taste delicious. In ancient times, it was one of the four major fish. Choose the fat and long fresh bass of the autumn frost, cut it into thin slices, soak it with spices, and then twist the water with a dry cloth, scatter it in the dish, and then mix the thin fragrant apricot flower leaves and fish slices. The cutting skills of making this dish are critical. Du Fu, a great poet of the Tang Dynasty, "Watching the Fishing Songs" poem said: "Swap the knife on the left and right of the mules, and fly the golden plate with white snow." The fish fillets are thin, thin as a willow silk, thin as cicada wings.

Yang Shengzhang's "Dan Lead Excerpts" discussed the bass characteristic characteristics: "Perch bass, pupar wax, and the flavor is very beautiful. Dry. "Said the text" said: "细, thin cut meat." "Golden jade" is a golden -chopped dish, and it is as white as a thin fish fillet. In ancient times, carp was used as a carp. In the Tang Dynasty, because the carp and the emperor Li surnamed Li, the carp was respected as the "red carp". Because the sea bass is generally produced in the south of the river and offshore, the mainland is rare and difficult to catch. Yang Shengzhang uses catfish when it is produced. Catfish not only for meals, but also medical effects. In the Tang Dynasty, Meng Yan believed in the "Food Treatment Materia Medica" that the catfish had the effect of "the stomach gas of food, tone, Yi Wuzang, and pure vegetables to be good for food". Yang Gongyu has the effects of stopping sudden dysentery, so it can be said that Yang Gongyu is not only a dish, but also a dish. Thinking about the sweet -scented osmanthus fragrance of the lake, Yang Shengzheng rafted the lake of Gui Lake, fishing the lively and beautiful catfish to cook the "Yang Gongyu" to wait for friends. Essence

Dogwood wine tea

Dogwood, Jasar is a deciduous tree, yellow -green flowers in summer, the fruits are edible, can be used as medicine. It is a strong medicine for convergence. Homocana is divided into dogwood, Evodia, dogwood, etc. The ancients often used dogwood as condiments and tea for drinking.

Yang Shengzhang said in Volume 12 Middle School in "Dan Lead Yu Lu": "Shuzhou has a tall dogwood, there are long and 100 -foot, and the Shu people call their son as Aizi." "Ancient and Modern Ji" records: "Aizi, dogwood, real green, and schizophrenia. Every time the Shu people enter one capsule, they are full of fragrance, or they are used to make cream." Universal situation: Sichuan's dogwood is very high, and when the fruit is ripe, the color is positive and spicy. When the Sichuan people drink alcohol, put it in the wine. After a while, the whole cup of wine is full of fragrance. It is also particularly good to make medicinal materials. It can be seen that the dogwood is particularly loved by Shu Land literati. The dogwood can also be used to treat the disease. In the Tang Dynasty Mengzhan's "The Treatment of the Materia Medica": "If the stroke is windy, the mouth is not able to speak, the dogwood is one liter, four liters of sake, and the boiled four or five boils. , Three days of serving, get the worst of sweat. "In addition to the treatment of strokes, it can also treat tooth pain, and the effect is very good, and the patient will heal quickly.

In "Dan Lead Yu Lu", Yang Shengzhang also verified the difference between Shutamold and Aiko in detail: "Shu dogwood granules are large, and they are yellow for a long time. His son -like dogwood. In August, the natives were picked up and filtered with scum, named Ai oil, with bamboo shoot fern, and the flavor was spicy. The dogwood is great, and the qi is brightened, and it is not possible to be oily. Today, the local forest garden is planted, and the dogwood is dried to cook tea. , Materia Medica is one, and it is mistaken. "It means that the soozette seeds are very large, the color becomes yellow after maturity, and there is also a dog -like Aozi. The locals collect rotten filter scum every August to get the Ai oil. Cooking bamboo shoots and fern. The Shutter of the Ming Dynasty was produced in Chongqing and Luzhou. The dogwood is dry and dried. It is wrong to consider the two as the same plant. The ancients particularly liked dogwood. Not only did the dogwood use the condiments of cooking tea and tea and tea, but also used as sacrifice, pendant, medicinal, and evil things, and friends who gathered together to miss each other to form the customs of dogwood. Ge Hong's "Xijing Miscellaneous" in the Jin Dynasty records that on September 9th, the concubine of the Han Gaozu Liu Bang, Mrs. Qi Qi, inserted dogwood, drink chrysanthemum wine, eats bait, and travels for a happy banquet. By the Tang Dynasty, the customs of the Chongyang Festival inserted dogwood were very common. The famous poet Wang Wei of the Tang Dynasty Wang Wei "Remembering Shandong Brothers on September 9th" poem cloud: "Solochor in a foreign country, every festival is thoughtful. Ascend to the heights, insert one less person through the hoe. "

Bamboo honey stab honey

Honey is a good condiments. Different honey is different because the bee collects different pollen. Bamboo honey and thorn honey are two of them. The Qing Qianlong version of "The Complete Works of Shengyu · Diet" Volume 23 Twenty -two records: "There is a bamboo bee in Shu, which is better than the nest on the wild bamboo, the nest is as big as a chicken, honey and color, and the honey." Said that bamboo honey is a specialty of Sichuan, bamboo bees build nests in the wild bamboo in the mountains. The nests are as large as eggs, and the honey is blue, and the taste is much sweeter than ordinary honey.

The book also said: "" Liang Sigongzi ", Gao Changguo sent an ambassador to Gongmi, Emperor Liang Wu sent Jie Gong to welcome it. , Its honey color is white and sweet; Yancheng Sheep has a large leaf, and its honey color is green and thin, so it is to know its false. "This is Yang Shengzhang's historical allusions about identifying honey. Emperor Wu entered the honey and lied to say that Nanping was produced. Nanping was in Hunan and was rich in treasure honey. Liang Jiegong went to receive the ceremony, and to know that the honey was faked in Yancheng honey in Jiangsu. Liang Jiegong introduced to Emperor Liang Wu that the Nanping jujube trees bloomed without leaves, and the honey color was sweet and sweet; when the jujube trees bloomed, the leaves were large, and the honey color was light and sweet. It's right. Sheep thorns, jujube trees are more thorns, nicknamed sheep, sheep thorns, and jujube nectar is called thorns.

The earliest records of honey were used in the spring and autumn period. Beekeeping, honey gradually became popular. Edible honey has the function of health and disease and disease and disease. "Shen Nong's Materia Medica" says stone honey (wild honey). Body, not hungry or old. "Li Shizhen's" Compendium of Materia Medica "in the Ming Dynasty said that there were six effects of honey:" If life is cold, it can clear heat; Ze, so it can moisturize. It can be eager to rush, so it can stop the heart, muscle, sore pain; harmony can be reconciled, so it can be reconciled, and the same merit with licorice. " Bad gastrointestinal, sweet and flat, clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the spleen and stomach, buffering pain and other effects. Yang Shengzhang believes: "San is like mannal dew, condensed like cutting fat, fresh and fresh jade, slippery orchid fragrant." He vividly evaluated the shape, color, and fragrance of honey, thinking that the shape of the honey of the honey The color is as white as fat, and the taste is as fragrant as orchid.

Tree salt and umbrella salt

Since ancient times, cooking and seasoning have been inseparable from salt, and salt ranks first in the medium in Wuwei tuner. Yang Shengzhang's writings record two strange salt two kinds of strange salt of tree salt and umbrella salt.

Tree salt, also known as wood salt, can be used as seasoning because it grows on the tree. Yang Shengzhang said in "Dan Lead Continue Record · Volume VI": "Chen Zangya" Materia Medica ": salt bran tree, a rebel slave salt, Shu people say the sour barrel. Sui ... ... According to the museum today, there is no such article, and the sour barrel does not know why the tree is on the salt of the female real country. There are records of tree salt in "Daming Yi Zongzhuan · Women's Zhen". Tree salt not only grows in the northeast, but also has a salt tree in ancient Sichuan. Most of them grow in the old forests of the mountains. The spikes in July each year, the fruit of the knot is salt and cream, and people scrape them.

Umbrella salt is a piece of salt in shape like a small umbrella. "Shengyu Collection" Volume 69: "Yanjing, Yanjing, with salt square inch, and the central bang is like an umbrella, the name of the umbrella salt. In the current city of Yunyang County, Chongqing, after the Qin Dynasty was destroyed, it was settled in Ba County. Puzhou government, in Fengjie County, Chongqing today. Wanliuyi, the Ming Dynasty station, in Wushan County, Chongqing. One inch of salt produced in Yunyang Salt Well is like an open umbrella, hence the name of the umbrella salt. Both salt are edible. In addition, there are cliff salt produced in the cliff, the salt produced in the soil, the stone salt produced in the stone, and the pepper salt produced in the grass. In the Ming Dynasty, Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" recorded in detail: "Cliff salt was born in the cliff, Rongyan was born in the soil, umbrella salt was born in the well, stone salt was born in stone, wood salt was born in trees, and pertaneous salt was born in grass. The beauty of creating creatures is hard to know. "Li Shizhen also admired the wonderfulness of nature:" The wonderful creature, the sincerity is hard to know. "

The people take food as the sky, and diet is the first element of survival and development of humans. Yang Shengzhang has a well -known knowledge, has a good writing, and also loves food. He can be called a cuisine of food. In his food culture writing, there are many content that has been popular in ancient times and has been lost in ancient times. The diet and cultural life of the masses.

Source: Sichuan Provincial Local House Work Office

Author: Xu Jingguo (Office of Wuhou District, Chengdu)

Supply: Local Chronicle of Wuhou District, Chengdu City

- END -