Yuan Story │ For her fashion

Over the past 40 years, Shenzhen Women's clothing has experienced the stage of processing manufacturing, brand rise, design leadership, and digital driving, and eventually embarked on the road to internationalization.

"The south of the south became one of the 28 salt officials in the country in the Hanwu Emperor Hanwu. Building 'Blot City' is the earliest city in Shenzhen. "This is a introduction on the Internet. The ancient city of Nantou, which is more than 1,700 years old, can be described as the root of the history of Shenzhen.

At 3 pm on July 2, 2022, the typhoon "Siaba" landed in Maoming, Guangdong, and Shenzhen was already overwhelming. Zhao Huizhou was sitting in an old house in the ancient city of Nantou, and the colorful glass windows of Nanyang Wind came out of the wind. The mellow fragrance of coffee is accompanied by music, which makes people feel at ease ... It seems that the wind and rain outside make people feel like the wind and rain outside, immersed in the end of time.

The 42 -year -old Shenzhen Special Economic Zone found the root of history and urban memory in the ancient city of antique. At the end of 2021, Zhao Huizhou placed his "HUI Non -Heritage Art Design Museum" here as the "Hundred Years of Fashion Museum" of the Dalang Fashion Town.

The ancient city of Nantou has the root of Shenzhen, and the famous Shenzhen women's clothing brand "Yi Zhihui", which was founded in 1997, found its own cultural root -non -heritage craftsmanship.

Ancient and modern, historical and innovative. In the alongs of the soul of the brand, Zhao Huizhou has an emotional common frequency with the city of the southern country.

Dalang Fashion Town

The Qing Dynasty costume with a century -old history was hung at the window of the "HUI Non -Heritage Art Design Museum". The ingenuity of the art of the non -heritage elements has the soul of the traditional culture in the bones, so that every viewer can find the resonance point of memory. And Zhao Huizhou's walking clothes at Milan International Fashion Week, showing on the second floor on the second floor, and encountering true love.

On the third floor, it is not only a place to buy clothes, but also a experience shop created by clothing, accessories, paintings, space, etc. "It is a concept store that makes people feel better in life," Zhao Huizhou said. She is always a person who transmits beauty, and her clothes are just one of them.

On this day, Zhao Huizhou returned from Italy to Shenzhen, and she worked and lived in Milan for nearly half a year. In February 2022, with Milan's international team, she jointly created a "outside the screen" show and appeared at 2022 AW Milan Fashion Week -this is her 10th appearance in Milan International Fashion Week.

What echo the HUI non -heritage art design museum in the ancient city of Nantou is the 100 -year fashion museum located in the art of the Yonghua Dalang Fashion Town. Come out of the museum and come to Yizhi Hui's new office space full of LOFT style. Visual freedom and openness. Old chairs, stone carvings, paintings and clothing coexist in a room to tell the secrets of fashion. And picking up the art museum on the second floor. The rooftop here can overlook the rich modern style of the industrial park, and you can also see the fashion empire of Shenzhen women's clothing famous brand Martfill. Looking at the distance from the distance, Shenzhen's clothing heads such as Ge Lisi, Ying'er, and Winners are brought together here, and shops representing the brand temperament are scattered all over the Dalang Fashion Town. In addition to clothing flagship stores, these high -end women's clothing brands in Shenzhen also include supporting industrial parks, museums, art galleries, cafes, etc., which can be described as frequently "out of the circle" and "cross -border".

"The current Dalang Fashion Town has become an important sector that affects China's fashion industry. It has reached more than 600 fashion companies and the annual output value of the fashion industry exceeds 20 billion yuan. "Area of ​​the area", the former party committee secretary of the Dalang Fashion Town and director of the construction management center Cao Yuxin talked about the Shenzhen women's clothing he knew.

On July 12, at the National Textile Industry Advanced Collective Model and Advanced Workers' Commendation Conference (Guangdong Branch) held at the Pearl River Hotel in Guangdong, Cao Yuxin won the title of "National Textile Industry Advanced Worker". Since 15 years since 2007, he has participated in the entire process of the establishment of Longhua Dalang Fashion Town, and has experienced the key nodes of Shenzhen clothing from traditional processing and manufacturing to brand fashion industries, and participated in the process of gathering in Shenzhen Great Women's Wear Industry and Brand.

"Chinese women's clothing looks at Shenzhen, Shenzhen women's clothing is seen in the waves." The big wave fashion town presents the "Shenzhen Women's clothing" in an uppercase posture -it is considered by industry insiders to be the bright pearl at the top of Shenzhen's fashion pyramid.

▲ Martfill Building.

Manufacturing

On July 21, we met with Liu Xiaoyan, the founder of Bennei poems, and met with the founder of Benni.

Thirty years since 1992, Liu Xiaoyan used time and talent to build his dream city. We chatted while drinking tea at her Showroom. She made it into an art garden that conforms to her aesthetic. Together with Liu Xiaoyan's ideal country.

Our layer is located in the Huaxia Military Uniform Museum, which has been established for nearly ten years. The most eye -catching in the museum is the iron ride uniform. It has the powerful function of scientific and technological blessings, and is handsome and handsome. Because of this, the "Fifty Chinese Uniforms", "Guangdong Famous Brand Products", "The Eleventh Shenzhen Lailer", etc., are all attributives in front of the poem.

"In the past 30 years, we have been beaten by the market countless times, but fortunately, we have come here!" Liu Xiaoyan, who loves gongbi painting and writing poetry, has a lot of literature and art in the bones, and has accepted market crit countd countless times. In the end, she started from the women's clothing and found the runway. In 1992, Liu Xiaoyan remitted into the migrant team of this reform city, and then became a migrant girl at the then electronics factory. "The monthly salary is 900 yuan. I only spend 100 yuan for living expenses, and the remaining 800 yuan is stored."

After only two years, Liu Xiaoyan accumulated a "first bucket of gold" for herself. From an electronics factory to start a business, she set up a clothing processing plant. "At that time, Hong Kong's foreign bank received a large number of clothing orders in Europe, America, Japan and South Korea. There were many large and small clothing processing plants in Shenzhen, which provided 'ingredients processing' services for these orders."

"We have developed quickly. We can get a new factory in almost two years, mainly to provide services for Japanese and Korean orders." In 1994, Liu Xiaoyan rented a farmer's house. Rent a single building.

What time is that?

"During the peak, there were more than 2,000 clothing processing companies in Shenzhen, distributed in industrial parks such as Shekou, Baguyling, Liantang, etc., and more than 400,000 people were engaged in clothing processing export business, and more than 100 world brands were processed in Shenzhen. "This is the data revealed by Shen Yongfang, who was the president of the Shenzhen Clothing Industry Association.

Rise

In May 1993, China held the International Clothing Fair for the first time. Valentino arrived in Beijing from Italy. French fashion design master Pil Kadan held a fashion show in Beijing Tiantan. The fashion world opens its eyes. In 1993, Zhu Chongzhen, who had a unique pursuit of beauty, went south to Shenzhen from Hangzhou all the way to Shenzhen. With the help of several friends, he used a pair of scissors, a ruler, a sewing machine, and a cloth. Try the initial wholesale agency business and start the fashion dream.

On July 14, 2022, we came to the Martfill Building, a landmark building in the big wave fashion town. It took more than ten years since the foundation laid in 2008 and spent more than 1 billion yuan. The New Zealand national treasure architectural designer Van Brandenburg served as chief design. The Martfill Building was known as "Hermes in the architectural industry".

"Shenzhen is the birthplace and cradle of Chinese women's clothing. Most of the well -known Chinese women's clothing brands were born, developed and expanded in Shenzhen. Martfill is one of them. It can be said that Martfill's growth history is A microcosm of the development of the fashion industry in Shenzhen for more than 30 years! "Martfill founded the founding team that they experienced and witnessed the 30 -year -old development process of Shenzhen's fashion industry with many brands in Shenzhen.

In 1997, Zhao Huizhou, who graduated from Hubei Academy of Fine Arts in clothing design, found that "there is no professional counterpart work at all, because the city is full of clothing processing factories everywhere, and there is no original clothing designer." She had a brief work in a clothing company, and finally decided to create the "Yizhihui" brand to realize her design ideals.

The earliest she opened a small shop in the "New Dahao Plaza" in Huaqiangbei, and then sold her own design clothes in Tianhong Plaza, Sui Bao Department Store and other places. Beginning in 1999, "Yi Zhihui" has the first independent specialty store in Shenzhen Bauhinia City. To this day, Yizhihui and Hui have opened different forms of specialty stores, experience stores and concept stores across the country, and HUI also has a large number of European fans in 9 famous buyers in different cities in Italy.

The Shenzhen Clothing Industry Association was established on August 18, 1988. This year is also the first year when Shen Yongfang joined the industry. For 30 years, she has witnessed each other with the entire industry and has participated in in -depth. "I started from the secretary. In the first ten years of the Shenzhen clothing industry, it was basically processing, 100 % used for export. Now, Shenzhen has nearly ten listed companies including Ge Lisi and Winners. This is a great result ... "Shen Yongfang, who retired from the president of the association at the end of 2019, was full of emotions and emotions in his tone.

The first chairman of the Shenzhen Clothing Industry Association was Zhai Xiaoping, the boss of Huose Group, the largest clothing processing company at that time, and the executive vice president was Shen Yongfang's sister. The later chairman was Gu Boying and Zhai Xiaoping. In 1988, Shen Yongfang's salary in Nantong hometown was only tens of yuan. The brother -in -law summoned her to Shenzhen, saying that the monthly salary was 300 yuan.

However, after coming to the SAR, the farmers' houses located on Wushugang Road were rented. There were fields everywhere. When serving as the Secretary -General of the Clothing Association, Shen Yongfang rode a bicycle family to knock on the door of different enterprises and factories to conduct market research. "At that time, the clothing industry was an export company of foreign -funded capital. People did not open the door. Many people talked to me across the door." To this end, she deliberately found a letter of introduction to the Municipal Industry and Information Council. With an official certificate, companies are willing to share their operating conditions. It took me two years to walk in this way, and it was touched by the entire industry. When taking over the Secretary -General of the Industry Association, she used all the money in the family to rent a house for the association, pay deposits, and pay artificial and hydropower costs.

In the early 1990s, among more than 1,000 "three -to -one supplement" enterprises, some companies began to transform and have the consciousness of independent founding brand. In Shen Yongfang's impression, it was an era of brand awakening and rise. Shen Yongfang shared that from 1995 to 1997, the Southeast Asian financial crisis, Shenzhen's clothing processing enterprises were greatly impacted and orders decreased sharply. Under this background, the Shenzhen Clothing Industry Association pioneered the "five projects" in 1999, namely famous enterprises, famous teachers (designers), brand names, shops, and models to implement the strategy of Shenzhen clothing and brand names. In the same year, the association led the organization of nearly a hundred clothing companies in Shenzhen to form a "brand fleet" to participate in the Beijing China International Clothing and Clothing Expo with the overall image. "Special Economic Zone Ranjiao" and "Southern State Fashion Wind" ... After many years in a row, Shenzhen's clothing has been launched nationwide with an overall image.

Design lead

In 2015, Zhao Huizhou was recommended by the Chinese Clothing Association to participate in China -Italian cultural exchanges as "the best designer in China". Essence

"As a Chinese, I grew up in this soil, and I combed the things of the past 30 years through my childhood memory." Zhao Huizhou's first show surprised the international fashion industry. "She may not just express personal memory, but to think about the loss of a era. This fashion and artistic language method is common in the world." This is a fashion design professor at Milan Institute of Technology Evaluation of this big show.

This time Milan's first show, Zhao Huizhou's partner was only one Westerner. Today, in Milan's studio, Zhao Huizhou's partner, design director, product manager, director, etc. are all senior fashion people who have worked in first -line luxury brands for 10 to 30 years, with more than 15 teams.

In 2018, HUI is the first brand in China to enter the official schedule of Milan Fashion Week. Since then, every spring, summer and autumn and winter, it will release fashion trends on this stage. She has successively launched the "Silk Road Freshmen", "Preface", "Building", "Chinese Ling", "Chinese Tea", "Chinese Lantern", "Chinese Opera", "Chinese Women's Books".

Zhao Huizhou studied business administration at the Central and European Business College, completed the Master of Fashion Management at Milan University of Technology, and won the 22nd Chinese fashion design "Golden Top Award" (the highest prize in Chinese clothing designers), 2014 APEC clothing core creative designer, Shenzhen The 40th anniversary of the Economic Zone Establishment of Innovation and Entrepreneurship and Advanced Model "Outstanding Craftsman" is the honorary title ... She said that she was influenced by a tailor -made mother and liked cutting clothes and design from an early age. She increased its aesthetics in college and experienced the period of "survival" for ten years. In the late 1990s, she imitated international popularity. After that, she slowly found her own path. "The popularity is like the wind, and it comes quickly, but the designer needs to find the soul of clothing. For me, that is the traditional culture of non -heritage as the carrier, so that the clothes we designed will become wearable art."

"I have always learned to learn from you." Zhao Huizhou laughed. Although it was the last bus, it was tied with international first -tier brands such as FENDI, Prada, Armani, TOD's, BOSS, etc. Great. She looks forward to forming the influence of Chinese fashion internationally like Miya's life and Yamamoto Yamamoto.

In the next 5 to 10 years, Zhao Huizhou will open an international brand store in HUI in the four fashion cities including Milan, London, Paris, and New York, as well as the US and Russia. She believes that the Chinese style is not the expression of "symbolism". The new image of Hui combines the collision of East and West aesthetics. Taking space and clothing as a carrier, to present the Chinese cultural rejuvenation in the contemporary language context, and make Chinese and Western elements become me. There is you in it, you have me.

International road

"Shenzhen clothing people have seen good things, and they have done good things in foreign countries. The horizons are opened, and the starting point is also very high." Pan Ming, president of the Shenzhen Clothing Industry Association, talked about the topic of Shenzhen women's clothing and Shenzhen fashion for 40 years. In this way, Shenzhen women's clothing market share in the first -tier shopping malls in large and medium -sized cities across the country, and before that, the Chinese were accustomed to finding tailoring for tailoring or buying a boutique clothing.

"The development of the Shenzhen brand has played a very critical role of promoting the development of the business." Pan Ming introduced that there are more than 2,500 clothing companies (more than 90%of independent brands) in Shenzhen, nearly 10 listed companies, and 300,000 practitioners , 20,000 clothing designers achieved an output value of nearly 270 billion yuan in 2021, exported nearly 10 billion US dollars, and the output value accounted for more than 10%of the country. "Among more than 20,000 professional clothing designers, many people have returned from abroad, which helps the brand's innovation ability a lot.

In the past 10 years, a large number of independent designer brands have emerged in Shenzhen, such as Yang Zi's Annakiki, VMAJOR of Zhuweitt, etc. They bring an international perspective and lead the trend of the younger generation. The multi -brand strategies opened by commercial women's clothing brands such as Martfill, Ge Lisi, Winners, Ying'er, etc. have also steadily opened a new basic disk for Shenzhen Fashion. Together, they create a good ecology for Shenzhen's fashion industry, and use independent innovation and unlimited creativity to create a "fashion capital". The accumulation of Shenzhen's 40 years of fashion industry has been born many big coffee -level fashion designers who have been active on the international stage. Among them, Liang Zi, Zhao Huizhou, Luo Yan, Liu Yong, etc. have won the "Golden Ding Awards" in China ’s fashion design, Luo Yan Zhao Huizhou was selected as the core designer of the 2014 APEC Summit's clothing design team, which conveyed the fashion attitude of Oriental culture and the world of shoulders to the world. On the road to internationalization, some companies have acquired some international brands by multinational mergers. For example, Goli acquired international brands such as Laurèl, IRO, Ed Hardy, and became the first domestic clothing brand mergers and acquisition of international big names. Martfill successfully acquired Krizia, a well -known Italian fashion brand, Cadidl, and so on. In addition, the Shenzhen brand is actively among the world's fashion stage. From 2008 to 2019, Shenzhen has participated in London, New York and Milan Fashion Week for 12 consecutive years. It has participated in more than 200 brands. The brand's international channels have been expanded.

"After several rounds of transformation, the high value -added link left by Shenzhen's traditional advantageous industry has formed a relatively complete supply chain system in the Pearl River Delta region. It is a valuable wealth for 40 years of industrial development and the foundation and advantage of future industrial development. Zheng Xuan, the leader of the Shenzhen Industry and Information Technology Bureau and the first-level investigator, said in an interview that Shenzhen's traditional advantageous industry first started in the industrial transfer of Hong Kong. The rise of the brand (1996-2009), design leadership (2010-2019), digital driver (2020 to present) and other development stages. She said: "Traditional advantageous industries have always taken root in Shenzhen and serving the whole country, which has promoted Shenzhen to become an industrial base with complete domestic industry, concentration of original brands, complete industrial supporting, and significant scale agglomeration effects."

"I am lucky to provide services and value for Shenzhen, a city in the fashion field," Pan Ming said that she will continue to polish the city business card of "Shenzhen Fashion" through Shenzhen Fashion Week.

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Coordinating: Li Yan

Reporter: Feng Jingyin Weiying Kangyan Hui

Drawing: Zhang Yongyu

Edit: Li Huifang

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